Air quit blowing through my vents recently. When the problem first started it was sporadic. No air one time and then the next time I started the car it would work. Eventually it stopped entirely. I put a new blower motor in and that didn't fix it so I put the old one back in. I changed the resister and that also didn't cause the air to kick on. I switched out the fuse with no luck either. Any thoughts on what to try next?
Thanks in advance for any help.

 

Need to step back and re-check a few things.

Which fuse did you check - the one in the under hood fuse box?

Are you getting power and ground to the blower motor?

 

Since you already replaced the resistor and blower motor, the issue can be with the following:

• heater control panel
• wiring
• blower motor relay (located in under-dash fuse/relay box; less common issue; but, can be faulty)
• fuse (under-hood Fuse No. 17 (30A) and under-dash Fuse No. 8 (7.5A) - since the problem started sporadically, less probability it may be the fuses; but, check/re-check them both anyways.)

Note: Do not replace anything else yet. Do some test to narrow down the area.

With the ignition turned ON, the positive side (+) of the blower motor wiring is always hot if the blower motor relay is working properly and fuses are good, it just needs the negative ground (-) source through the resistor or heater control panel; the ground sources are controlled by the heater control panel.


1. If you have a voltmeter, at the 2-pin connector for the blower motor, test for battery power (+) with the ignition turned ON. You would disconnect the 2-pin connector from the blower motor. Touch the voltmeter's red lead to the Yel/Blk wire and the voltmeter's black lead to body ground (for example, a metal bracket on the car, etc). With the ignition ON, there should be power/voltage. If there is battery power on the Yel/Blk wire in this test, it means the fuses, blower motor relay and wiring up on the positive side (+) are good.

Yel/Blk wire is a wire with yellow colored insulation and a black stripe running through it.

2. If you don't have a voltmeter. Disconnect the 2-pin connector from the blower motor. Attach one end of a piece of spare wire to the cavity (where the Blue/Red wire is on the connector). With the connector plugged back in, touch/attach the other end of the wire to a ground source (the other end of the piece of wire touching exposed metal on the car (like a metal bracket). Turn the ignition ON, does the blower motor now run? If the blower motor runs in this test, it also means the fuses, blower motor relay and wiring on the positive side (+) are good.

 

I checked the fuse under the dash by the gas pedal/brake area.

I will try checking the ground wiring to see if this helps. Thanks

 

Pull the **** off the dash and see it the know itself is cracked. When they crack they won't adjust the air speed. The other thing is the linkage often times gets dirty and won't turn. The linkage I am speaking of is located under the black lower air cover on the interior passengers side above the floor near the dash column. You will find two linkage connection points there. You can try cleaning and lubricating them assuming it is not the ****.