2003 Accord EX 2.4L AT
Recently the engine compartment started making a loud noise. It seemed to be related to the belt. After some investigation, it was determined it is the AC Compressor. The AC inside the care works fine. Everything engages and the air is cold. The sound actually gets quieter when the AC is on but it is still loud. The compressor was replaced just over a year ago so it is no longer under warranty and it was a remanufactured unit.

I'm wondering if there is any repair that can be made without having to replace the compressor and everyting else involved? Trying to keep the job $500 or less. Any way to bypass the compressor with the serpentine?

Thanks,
Mike Holland
2003 Accord 2.4L AT

 

It could be the idler bearing on the AC compressor clutch or tensioner bearing.

However, is the serpentine belt old? If yes, try replacing the belt first. A loose belt will produce squeaking rattling noise due to loose engagement.

I recently fixed my 2005 Matrix where I thought initially the compressor idler bearing was making the noise. Noise was slippage of belt on water pump drive pulley. Stopped w/ new belt.

Try spraying water on the belt. If noise temporarily disappears, the belt is cause of noise. If noise continues during spraying, then a compressor idler bearing or tensioner bearing more likely the problem. You need to pinpoint source of noise to avoid expensive, incorrect repairs.

good luck

 

Belt is only about a year old.

Took the belt off and the only peice that did not move smoothly was the AC Compressor. It doesn't seem to make any difference whether the AC is on or not. The noise does change (gets a bit quieter) when the AC is on but it is still loud.

If it is the compressor idler, is that something that can be changed without replacing the entire pump?

 

Noise w/ compressor engaged or not is correct for failing idler bearing. It always turns.

I've done this job on my 94EX, but not later models. I've looked at 2007 Accord (no longer owned) and thought it was possible. However, never had to do the job.

Alternator must be removed, and compressor mounting bolts removed. Hopefully the hoses will allow enough compressor movement to access clutch face.

Remove clutch plate retaining bolt (air impact or restraint tool necessary) and clutch plate. Careful to not lose shims beneath clutch plate. Then use snap ring pliers to remove snap ring retaining clutch stator. Bump clutch stator off w/ rubber hammer.

Bearing in clutch stator can be removed and replaced, or replace stator.

If replacing, bearing is likely staked and stakes must be ground out, and bearing driven out of stator w/ drift. Replace bearing, re-stake and reverse installation. Check clutch gap when reinstalling clutch plate to be sure it's w/i 24-24 mils. See youtube videos on this subject.

good luck

 

You sure the sound is the same? Because that compressor pulley bearing does not spin all the time.

When the compressor clutch is disengaged, the pulley spins free on it's own bearing. That's what you feel by spinning the pulley with the belt removed.

When the compressor clutch is engaged, that bearing doesn't spin. The clutch locks up, and it all turns as a unit, spinning the compressor shaft. So a different bearing is now spinning.

 

The bearing must turn w/ compressor engaged or not engaged. Look at diagram. It's the only thing between stator and compressor body. As long as pulley turns, bearing (inside of pulley) must turn also.

good luck

 

OK, I thought the stator (#12) bolts to the compressor body without touching the shaft. The compressor shaft goes through the clearance-hole in the middle of the stator without touching it. I didn't realize there was another bearing in there.

 

The stator mounts on an hollow tubular extension of the compressor body. Compressor shaft is inside that extension and connects directly to the clutch plate.

good luck