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Additives to fix rear main seal leak?

Old 12-25-2013, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by jkowtko View Post
Yes that was my first change, to Castrol GTX High Mileage. However I have been using the specified weight for the car - 5w30 - which is on the thinner side, so I would like to thicken it up a bit. Therefore the question of which step to go .. 5w40 or 10w40?
Like I said in my first post, ANYTHINGw-40 will not help slow the rate of leaking one bit.
Old 12-28-2013, 12:53 PM
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You're smart, so you would have already penciled out how much the oil leak is costing you every 6months.

Originally Posted by jkowtko View Post
I live in Northern California, and according to the CD5 recommended viscosity chart pretty much any common oil weight should be just fine here.

Question, should I up to 5w40 or 10w40? I would like to do this as gradually as possible so I don't "overthicken" the oil. Currently my feeling is that the dripping occurs when the engine is hot, so 5w40 would be the more appropriate first step.

Any thoughts?
Many have tried to reduce leak drips and/or increase oil pressure by going down the change oil viscosity route.
I've not met / heard from anybody that it worked for. Hope you're the first ...
Old 06-24-2014, 02:08 PM
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Okay (and I mentioned this in another thread as well) -- I switched from GTX Gastrol High Mileage 5w-30 to Penzoil dino 5w-30, and the dripping has stopped. It's been 1500 miles on this oil change, so far so good.

This isn't an excuse to never change that rear main seal if we intend to keep the car long-term, but with 240k miles on the car we're also looking at a new engine and/or tranny at some point, so no sense in wasting $800 now if we'll be pulling the drivetrain apart later anyway.

At this point I will simply be diligent on oil changes to make sure the oil stays fresh.
Old 07-23-2018, 04:21 PM
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Default Rear main seal replacement.

Originally Posted by Roader View Post
R&R'ing the trans and replacing the seal isn't a bad job, even on the ground with a floor jack and jack stands. Four hours if you're fast, a whole Saturday if you take your time. The hardest part is probably getting the axle nuts off.
how bad is the rear main seal to replace?? I mean Iíve replaced the whole front end suspension wise in my car, so Iím confident in getting all of that apart to get the transmission free. How hard is it to pull the trans? It doesnít looks like it would be difficult at all. Is there a right up on f22b1 manual trans removal or the whole rear main seal procedure?
Old 07-23-2018, 05:30 PM
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Please put your vehicle information in your signature, so we know what you drive.

F22B1 is from a 94-97 accord. I'd recommend downloading the 94 shop manual. The common diy thread on top of the gen tech help forum has a link to the hondahookup site where you can signup and download that manual. The 94 accord is identical to the 95, while the 96/97 are slightly different, but not for removing the CV joints and the transmission.
Old 07-23-2018, 05:38 PM
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Default Accord

My Honda is a 97 Accord F22B1
Old 07-23-2018, 08:41 PM
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The 94 shop manual will work for your car. The difference is really the distributors, because 2 sensors were moved to under the timing belt cover on the 96/97 accords. The 96/97 accords can have codes checked with OBD2.

Are you sure your rear main seal is leaking? What issues are you having? You should start a new thread, so people don't get confused when reading this thread. There are other more common places for oil leaks on the 94-97 accords.
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