Air Con not working
Hi all........the air con on my Accord Coupe recently stopped working. I couldn't hear the clutch engaging so I assumed this was the problem. However, I also noticed the condenser fan wasn't working. Could the failed fan be the problem or is the fan not working because the clutch isn't engaging (or visa versa)
Hope this doesn't sound too confusing!!
Shony
Hope this doesn't sound too confusing!!
Shony
It could even be something else, like low refrigerant-charge, causing both. There are pressure switches in the system to prevent the compressor from destroying itself if the refrigerant has leaked out.
Should we try to guess which year/model? Is it an Accord of some kind?
Should we try to guess which year/model? Is it an Accord of some kind?
Thanks guys............its a 1999 2.0 ES coupe and the system has a full load of gas
Shony
If you're sure the system has adequate refrigerant charge, then there are two primary fault possibilities:
1) an electrical fault to compressor circuit; compressor relay, hi/lo pressure switch open, faulty AC switch, or failed ac thermostat.
2) compressor clutch gap is too large preventing clutch from engaging (magnetic field too weak).
Suggest pulling electrical connector to compressor (single wire) and checking for 12V when compressor should be engaged (keyswitch on, AC switch on, blower on).
If you see 12V, the clutch gap must be adjusted by removing clutch plate and shim from beneath clutch plate to restore gap to spec (0.35-0.6 mm). It should be possible to do this w/o discharging system, but not an easy job.
If you don't see 12V, the electrical fault as in 1) above must be determined.
good luck
1) an electrical fault to compressor circuit; compressor relay, hi/lo pressure switch open, faulty AC switch, or failed ac thermostat.
2) compressor clutch gap is too large preventing clutch from engaging (magnetic field too weak).
Suggest pulling electrical connector to compressor (single wire) and checking for 12V when compressor should be engaged (keyswitch on, AC switch on, blower on).
If you see 12V, the clutch gap must be adjusted by removing clutch plate and shim from beneath clutch plate to restore gap to spec (0.35-0.6 mm). It should be possible to do this w/o discharging system, but not an easy job.
If you don't see 12V, the electrical fault as in 1) above must be determined.
good luck
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kellysa111
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Jul 12, 2009 06:10 PM



