This may be repetitive of whats already been said, I'm not sure. I dont really know much about cars thats why I am looking to this forum for help, anyhow, I just purchased a 2000 Honda Accord which drives wonderfully, a very good car, the only thing is the temp control only works on high I mean my AC and heat both work really well, I mean we are comfortable riding but I dont always want the air on blast and I dont think I will want the heat on blast either. Is there anything ( like checking a fuse underhood or inside fuse) that I can check myself before sending my car to a shop?

 

If you want, you can replace the blower motor resistor yourself. This video is specifically for your car:

youtube.com/watch?v=vRs1JJ42Eg0

 

This is the Honda part number for your car: 79330-S84-A01

Honda list price is $102, which you can buy for less from an internet Honda dealer like Bernardi Honda Parts, Majestic Honda, etc. Local dealerships many times will mark-up over list price; however, some dealer parts guys will sell for list price or less if you bring something showing the list price, etc. and be nice. This is a common problem so most dealerships will have it in stock.

An alternative is aftermarket; but, I recommend getting the blower motor resistor from Honda to ensure quality.

 

Hiya All;

Thanks be it for the internet and this website because being able to due research on why my heating (blower) wasn't working on any settings, I was able to go about being a DIY and tackle this problem.

For my '91 Honda Accord LX, I got the blower housing detached from the car and once I had the blower motor out, I had it connected to wires to make a complete circuit to a battery and as expected, it didn't work. Natural tendency would be to buy a new motor since all the symptoms pointed to that. But check this out: the old motor was fine. Having a suspicion that the wires being used to test it were inadequate (the gauge wasn't right - a single strand of wire, which means there would be no way enough power would reach the blower motor), I had them test a brand new motor the same way and sure enough that motor didn't start to run. Had I bought the new motor without buying it....it would have solved the problem because the wiring on it were good, and on the old motor the wiring were needing some TLC. Essentially, the problem was poor/incomplete/broken circuit After cutting off the tips of the two old wires and stripping some plastic back to expose fresh wiring, and after buying new butt-connectors, I was able to get the old motor running through the original wire-assembly. So, that's proof that you don't just want to go out and buy new parts, because instead of spending $70, I spent only three. I hopes this helps.