Car: 2000 honda accord lx coupe

Ok so over the weekend I was doing a brake change, as well as a valve cover seal. I ran into problems doing both, but have solved a majority of them except for the no start. I'm going to explain step by step what i did and maybe someone can help me out. Some may be relevant, some may not be.

Brakes: removed all 4 rotors, stripping one of the pointless screws in the passenger rear rotor, so i had to drill it out (partially. I was able to remove most of the screw, but would not be able to put another screw in). I had the front two rotors machined, and bought new rear rotors because they were wearing badly and were too thin. i put the front calipers and rotors back on, checked that the brakes were working (they were), and put the tires back on. The fronts are fine. As I removed the passenger rear rotor I find a lot of problems. first off the rotor is rusty and it doesn't look like it makes contact. Next i look at the brake pads in the rear passenger side and the inner one has no pad left and is 100% metal and has a deep gash in it (caused by the very outside of the rotor that the pad doesn't contact). Well i figure this is the constant squealing noise coming from the brakes. So bought new rear brake pads and rear calipers (i couldn't turn the passenger piston worth ****). Anyway, I replace the calipers and the pads and rotors, and attempt to bleed them. I go to add brake fluid and there is nothing in the master cylinder reservoir. I added fluid hoping that no air got in. I go to bleed the brakes, and it seems like i got the air out at the rear calipers. so i spin the rotor and see if the brakes are working and nothing happens.

Valve cover gasket.
Scraped off the old gasket, put the new one on, and bolting the cover back down a broke one of the bolts off. I'm not an idiot and know not to over torque these case the valve cover and bolts are cheap. Anyway it wasn't feeling tight at all and I knew it was going to happen. It the bolt in the center of the valve cover towards the firewall. Anyway, I go to start the car, and it starts, and runs as normal as it ever has. Even as I take the bolt part way out.

This was all yesterday. When I started it up there was an abs light on. so today i try to diagnose that and why the brakes weren't working. So i look up how to pull the abs codes and find this

Jump these 2 pins on the data link connector together and count the abs light blinks. It should give a code quickly followed by a sub code.


I jumped it and i got code 589 wtf... i go to look it up on the computer and get confused so i go back to try again and i was looking at it the wrong way and jumped the wrong pins. It would be the BOTTOM FAR RIGHT and TOP 5TH FROM THE LEFT and i get a spark, which didn't happen any other times. I realize my mistake and i jump them correctly. Anyway, shortly after this, i try to get the car to run and nothing. Has been that way all day. I believe i fixed the rear brakes by bleeding the master cylinder and and then the rear calipers again. so i guess a lot of air got in before i filled it (I figured this was also why the abs light came on). So now i think i have everything but the no start and the error codes figured out.

I'm guessing something happened when i jumped the wrong pins. I checked the spark plugs right after i cranked the car a bunch of times, and they were bone dry. I checked the fuses for pretty much everything. I think i may have accidentally pulled an srs fuse too cause now that light is on. I figure its the fuel system, and the fuel pump in particular, because i dont hear the pump whine anymore when i turn the ignition on. I tried to find the relay for the pump but im getting confused. I found the main relay but not the fuel pump relay if there is one. The main relay circuit board looks ok.

Thats it i guess. any help would be appreciated. thanks.

 

What light were you counting when you got the 5, 8, and 9 codes?

 

abs i got 589

srs i got 92

 

The 9-2 for the SRS may have come from you pulling the fuse. The 5,8,9 may have been a 5-8 and a 5-4 which are problems with the rear sensors.

Neither of these problems would have caused your car not to start. When you jumped the wrong pins, you probably caused your no-start on your car. I am trying to figure out what you jumped.

 

i agree with you about everything. thank you for trying to help.

 

I am looking at a 98-02 shop manual that may be for European accords. It shows three fuse boxes, but yours may only have two (one under the hood and one under the driver's dash).

You jumped pin 16 to pin 5. From the generic OBD2 pinout, you jumped 16 (hot 12V) to a signal ground.

I am hoping that you just blew the fuse to pin 16. Check your fuses. Look for fuses for The cigarette lighter and fuse labeled DLC, ECU, Main Fuel Relay, etc...

You might as well check them all.

 

ok i will try that during the day

 

there is a fuse box in the engine bay. firewall passenger side. it has relays and fuses in it. basically touching it is another black box with 2 relays in it. There are also fuses and relays under the steering wheel. i'll see what i find. i guess ill pull the srs and abs ones too since they already need reset.

 

acg s was blown. what is that?

 

ha. that worked. i can't believe i didnt check that one. i checked most of them. guess i forgot that one. now on to the mushy brakes haha. appreciate it. go stillers.