One more question. Is there any way this issue could still be related to the starter? I believe the starter I recently purchased is a rebuilt. What is the best way to test a starter for an intermitant issue? Would a push button starter tool tell me if it's the starter? If so I could use that when my car won't start and that should remove any wiring or the ignition switch from the equation right? I don't want to chase a ghost if it could still be the starter, I know parts can be bad out of the box.

 

Parts stores like oreillys or autozone can test the battery, alternator, and starter without having to remove the starter. I remember on my accord, they told me my starter was drawing too much power and failed their test. About six months later, the starter started giving me problems. It is worth a shot.

 

Last time i ran into this i suspected the starter and they said it was fine and i ended up replacing it. Then about six months later the issue started up again. If i can get it checked in the car its worth a shot. If it checks out ill go after the ign switch. Ill post my findings. Thanks again.

 

So heres an update. On monday i push started the car. Alt was puttin out 14v when the car was runnin. Batt had 12v after i let it run for a bit. Shut car off and started it right back up. Everything seemed ok. Today car wouldnt start. Same cluck sound. Hooked up a remote start trigger. Starter tried to turn over but car wouldnt start. Check batt - it had 11.3v. Im thinkin after all this that my battery isnt holding a charge over a long period of time when its not bein drivin. Thoughts?

 

To add to the above post, instead of push starting it, i jumped it. It started immediatly. I drove it about 14 miles and shut it off for about 10 mins and then went ta leave and it started just fine. I drove it about 8 miles ta work and am about ta shut it off. Not sure if itll start tonite but ill post that later. But if i can jump it my ignition should be fine right? And if im gettin 14v out of my alt it should be fine too right?

 

Seems like you're right about those things. I see 2 possibilities...

1) Battery isn't holding a charge.

2) Something is draining the battery. Trunk light stays on? (something like that?)

If you run the car to get the battery all charged up, then disconnect the negative battery cable overnight. If it holds it's charge, then you know it's an actual drain in the car.

 

Oh ok, good call out, thanks. Yeah it started last night after I got off work (it sat about 8 1/2 hrs), but you could hear that it was a weak turn over. I'm about ta leave for work again. We'll see if it starts after sitting over night.
The thing that still has me curious is that sometimes when I would get in the car, I'd turn the key and it would just click. But if I tried it multiple times it would eventually start. That to me doesn't point towards the batt. Who knows. My have O'rielly test my batt over the wknd.

 

So it looks like after all the tail chasing I've done, I've got a battery that won't hold a good charge. I found that when I drive at night and bump the stereo system I barely get enough charge on the batt for it to sit overnight. I ran the car for about 10 mins this wknd and let the batt charge. Voltage was at 12.5v. Shut the car down and with only the trunk light on it droped to about 11.8v within a min. disconnected the negative cab;e and it continued to drop. I'm gonna get another batt this wk. I'll post if any of the intermitant starting problems come back. Thanks to everyone for the help.