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Engine/Tranny/Electrical Problem Please help!!!

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Old 08-03-2013, 09:23 AM
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Default Engine/Tranny/Electrical Problem Please help!!!

Hello HAF ... been a while, but I need some help.

I have a 2000 4cyl sedan, SE. It has the green ULEV VETC motor .... F23A4?

The problem started a few weeks ago, but it takes me a bit to find time for diagnostics and such (I wake up at 4:30 and get home at 6:30 .... and have many other projects to juggle).

The problem is that the car won't make enough power. It won't rev past 5000 rpm. There are no lights or stored codes. My oil is just due, but filled properly. The tranny fluid smells ok and is also at the right level.

At first, I thought that it wasn't engaging VTEC. I'm not sure that it is, but I've checked the VTEC solenoid and oil pressure switch with a volt meter and they checked out. Later on, I took the solenoid off to check the oil screen in the gasket, but there is no screen there on mine. Regardless, everything in there seemed clean. While I had the solenoid off, I bench tested it with a battery charger and it works.
 
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Old 08-03-2013, 09:28 AM
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Some thoughts .....

Torque converter Lockup solenoid - Maybe not locking up at high rpms and losing power. Should throw and in/out speed mismatch code in addition to a failed solenoid code.

Warmup rev limiter - Limits to 5000 for warmup. Temp gauge works. Radiator and AC fans work and cycle properly.
 
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Old 08-03-2013, 09:32 AM
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Today's developments ....

Today, I noticed that if I hold the gas peddle a little (2000 rpm or so) while in park, the rpms hunt +- 500 rpms. If I hold it like this a bit higher (~3000 rpm) for a minute or so, when I let the throttle snap shut, the car will stall out. Also, it started making a screeming noise .... video to follow.
 
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Old 08-03-2013, 09:39 AM
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Old 08-03-2013, 09:48 AM
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after watching some youtube, I realize that I didn't take the bottom part of the solenoid off ..... where the screen is. I guess I'll have to try that if we don't come up with another test/solution.
 
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Old 08-03-2013, 12:55 PM
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Even with video, sounds are tough to figure out over the web.

It sounds like belt noise to me. You might want to take off the two outer belts and see if the noise goes away.

You may want to use some whiteout and make a line from the crank pulley bolt to the edge of the crank pulley. Drive the car a bit, then see if the line is one line or now two lines. That pulley is really two metal pulleys with a piece of rubber glued between them.
 
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Old 08-03-2013, 01:52 PM
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Thanks PA. I don't think the pullies or belts are the problem. This noise isn't slipping belts. The electric system has enough power, so I think that the alt is getting enough from the engine. Ray suggested egr, so I may try that route. The noise actually sounds like something is stuck in the intake manifold.
 
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Old 08-03-2013, 01:55 PM
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Also, the noise started today, but the power issue has been weeks.
 
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Old 08-05-2013, 04:42 PM
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Update .... The noise comes and goes. It seems to have a buzz in the noise. Belt noise isn't ruled out, but doesn't seem to be the source. Regardless, the noise doesn't affect power delivery.

Driving with the EGR unplugged eventually caused a code, but improved power delivery a bit. I'd estimate that my 0-60 is down to 20s from 30s.

I'm thinking that this could be EGR stuck partially open, but I'd also expect a fuel mixture code for that. Since this is a MAP system, I'd expect a stuck EGR to cause a rich mixture. Rich and spent mixture are consistent with power loss though.

At this point, I think the next step is to pull the EGR valve to look for excessive soot buildup.
 
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Old 08-06-2013, 11:49 AM
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EGR is more like adding inert gas, it's oxygen-depleted.
Still, looking for clogged EGR is a good idea anyway.
 
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