Everything Broke Simultaneously (PCM Failure?)
#1
Everything Broke Simultaneously (PCM Failure?)
I got in my car yesterday morning and everything was suddenly broken.
1.) The low battery power indicator was on, even though the battery was at full power.
2.) The Emergency brake light was on, even though the EM brake was disengaged
3.) All the doors and the trunk open lights were on (on the dash), even though those doors were closed. However, the relevant in door running lights functioned correctly.
4.) The brake light malfunction indicator was on, even though the brake lights were functioning normally.
5.) Engine code P1706 A/T Concerns had been triggered for the first time ever.
6.) The Idle Air Control was audibly malfunctioning, causing the engine to rev up and down.
7.) I was foolish enough to drive up the street, and the Transmission would not shift.
8.) After running the engine, the low oil pressure and SRS indicators lit up. My oil is new and at the proper level. I won't be testing the SRS
9.) The speedometer is non-functional (stuck on zero), but interestingly the tachyometer is just fine.
I drive a 1998 Honda Accord EX V6 with 146,000 miles, and I've done my fair share of maintenance. I own all of the technical manuals.
Thoughts: After tracing the wiring systems, most of these sub-systems seem to interact with the driver's side fuse box and with ECM/PCM connector B.
I have already tested all the fuses in all the fuse boxes, and all have turned up fine. I have examined connectors to the ECM/PCM and the driver's side fuse box and none are disconnected.
Finally, because I know someone is going to suggest it, these are not the dummy lights. They stay on in electrical position II and when the engine is running.
Hypothesis: Has the PCM failed, but the ECM remained functional? The speedometer is fed by the PCM only, but the Tachyometer is fed by the PCM and ECM redundantly. This would indicate why the tachyometer functioned but the speedometer did not.
I'm completely open to suggestions, I am stumped. I'm calling Car-Talk tomorrow morning for stump the chumps
1.) The low battery power indicator was on, even though the battery was at full power.
2.) The Emergency brake light was on, even though the EM brake was disengaged
3.) All the doors and the trunk open lights were on (on the dash), even though those doors were closed. However, the relevant in door running lights functioned correctly.
4.) The brake light malfunction indicator was on, even though the brake lights were functioning normally.
5.) Engine code P1706 A/T Concerns had been triggered for the first time ever.
6.) The Idle Air Control was audibly malfunctioning, causing the engine to rev up and down.
7.) I was foolish enough to drive up the street, and the Transmission would not shift.
8.) After running the engine, the low oil pressure and SRS indicators lit up. My oil is new and at the proper level. I won't be testing the SRS
9.) The speedometer is non-functional (stuck on zero), but interestingly the tachyometer is just fine.
I drive a 1998 Honda Accord EX V6 with 146,000 miles, and I've done my fair share of maintenance. I own all of the technical manuals.
Thoughts: After tracing the wiring systems, most of these sub-systems seem to interact with the driver's side fuse box and with ECM/PCM connector B.
I have already tested all the fuses in all the fuse boxes, and all have turned up fine. I have examined connectors to the ECM/PCM and the driver's side fuse box and none are disconnected.
Finally, because I know someone is going to suggest it, these are not the dummy lights. They stay on in electrical position II and when the engine is running.
Hypothesis: Has the PCM failed, but the ECM remained functional? The speedometer is fed by the PCM only, but the Tachyometer is fed by the PCM and ECM redundantly. This would indicate why the tachyometer functioned but the speedometer did not.
I'm completely open to suggestions, I am stumped. I'm calling Car-Talk tomorrow morning for stump the chumps
#2
Your car has a powertrain control module (PCM) that controls the engine and transmission.
If you have the shop manuals, disconnect the battery and clean all ends of both battery cables, and all grounds throughout the engine bay and in the cabin that you can access. Use a wire brush or sand paper. See what happens when you tighten the grounds, then reconnect the battery.
Another possibility is the ignition switch is making poor contact. Has your car ever had the ignition switch recall done? You may want to call your dealership and find out.
If you have the shop manuals, disconnect the battery and clean all ends of both battery cables, and all grounds throughout the engine bay and in the cabin that you can access. Use a wire brush or sand paper. See what happens when you tighten the grounds, then reconnect the battery.
Another possibility is the ignition switch is making poor contact. Has your car ever had the ignition switch recall done? You may want to call your dealership and find out.
#3
When the battery light is on, it usually indicates something wrong with the alternator instead of the battery.
Many of the 6th generation V6 came with Delphi alternators which had problems. Your problems may be due to the alternator.
Many of the 6th generation V6 came with Delphi alternators which had problems. Your problems may be due to the alternator.
#4
pAHonda: This is a good idea. I was searching for one ground in particular, G101. You wouldn't happen to know any tips on how to find it, would you? Its supposed to be under the right side radiator hoses.
redbull-1: I find it hard to believe that a bad alternator could cause such a wide variety of problems. Is there any way to test that theory without buying a new alternator? Also, it should be noted my battery is at full charge, it is only the light that is on.
redbull-1: I find it hard to believe that a bad alternator could cause such a wide variety of problems. Is there any way to test that theory without buying a new alternator? Also, it should be noted my battery is at full charge, it is only the light that is on.
#6
The Delphi alternators had a host of problems such as bad bearings, diode, overheating, etc. You may have a charging problem that is causing other electrical gremlins. You can do a google search regarding bad Delphi alternators Accords on the net or even search this forum regarding alternators, The only problem that you listed that is atypical may be the nonfunctional speedometer (but, that could be a blown fuse that happened some time later after your check of the fuses).
Last edited by redbull-1; 07-16-2011 at 09:04 AM.
#7
Here's several threads from this forum regarding some alternator related problems:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...me-back-37560/
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...hts-all-11202/
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...-puzzle-41129/
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...000-rpm-39866/
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...me-back-37560/
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...hts-all-11202/
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...-puzzle-41129/
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...000-rpm-39866/
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wize_n
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10-10-2008 06:49 AM