Im going Crazy !!!
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 8
Are you able to get the car to start?
Not sure what FR stand for, but that is the fuel float mechanism. That panel was in the trunk near the back seat on my 95. Thought the 90-93 had it in the same location.
You will have to drop the tank to get to the fuel pump.
I would not do that just yet. You want to figure out if there is power being sent to the fuel pump from the main fuel relay. There should be a yellow wire that doesn't go under that access panel, but there is an electrical connector nearby for the wire harness. You want use a volt meter to see if that wire gets 12V when you turn the key to the II position.
Not sure what FR stand for, but that is the fuel float mechanism. That panel was in the trunk near the back seat on my 95. Thought the 90-93 had it in the same location.
You will have to drop the tank to get to the fuel pump.
I would not do that just yet. You want to figure out if there is power being sent to the fuel pump from the main fuel relay. There should be a yellow wire that doesn't go under that access panel, but there is an electrical connector nearby for the wire harness. You want use a volt meter to see if that wire gets 12V when you turn the key to the II position.
Super Moderator
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 16,328
From: Houston, TX
You should check for codes.
The easiest way to find TDC is to remove the plug from the access hole right above the engine ID. This is close to the front motor mount where the engine and transmission meet. See pic below.
Use a 19mm deep socket and turn the engine to TDC by turning the crank pulley bolt counterclockwise when looking at the bolt from the driver's side tire.
That notch on the flex plate will line up with the marker on the right when you reach TDC. When the marks line up, remove the distributor cap and see if the rotor is pointing to the cylinder with the #1 wire. Going in a clockwise direction looking at the car from the passenger tire, the firing order should be 1, 3, 4, 2.
The easiest way to find TDC is to remove the plug from the access hole right above the engine ID. This is close to the front motor mount where the engine and transmission meet. See pic below.
Use a 19mm deep socket and turn the engine to TDC by turning the crank pulley bolt counterclockwise when looking at the bolt from the driver's side tire.
That notch on the flex plate will line up with the marker on the right when you reach TDC. When the marks line up, remove the distributor cap and see if the rotor is pointing to the cylinder with the #1 wire. Going in a clockwise direction looking at the car from the passenger tire, the firing order should be 1, 3, 4, 2.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 8
I listened for the fuel pump and didnt hear anything even faint.
Might be the problem. Can i access the fuel pump without dropping the tank ? I know i took out my back seat and saw an access panel that had the letters " FR " on it but i think that might be where my fuel float is and maybe the fuel regulator if thats what " FR " means.
Might be the problem. Can i access the fuel pump without dropping the tank ? I know i took out my back seat and saw an access panel that had the letters " FR " on it but i think that might be where my fuel float is and maybe the fuel regulator if thats what " FR " means.
Super Moderator
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 16,328
From: Houston, TX
You have to drop the tank to get to the fuel pump.
There is an electrical connector in the trunk that leads to the fuel pump. You can try to test for voltage using a 12V test light. You don't want to waste time dropping the tank when the fuel pump was never getting power.
The yellow wire should have 12V for about 2 seconds. The other way is to jump the connector where the main fuel relay electrical connector.
There is an electrical connector in the trunk that leads to the fuel pump. You can try to test for voltage using a 12V test light. You don't want to waste time dropping the tank when the fuel pump was never getting power.
The yellow wire should have 12V for about 2 seconds. The other way is to jump the connector where the main fuel relay electrical connector.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 8
Are you able to get the car to start?
Not sure what FR stand for, but that is the fuel float mechanism. That panel was in the trunk near the back seat on my 95. Thought the 90-93 had it in the same location.
You will have to drop the tank to get to the fuel pump.
I would not do that just yet. You want to figure out if there is power being sent to the fuel pump from the main fuel relay. There should be a yellow wire that doesn't go under that access panel, but there is an electrical connector nearby for the wire harness. You want use a volt meter to see if that wire gets 12V when you turn the key to the II position.
Not sure what FR stand for, but that is the fuel float mechanism. That panel was in the trunk near the back seat on my 95. Thought the 90-93 had it in the same location.
You will have to drop the tank to get to the fuel pump.
I would not do that just yet. You want to figure out if there is power being sent to the fuel pump from the main fuel relay. There should be a yellow wire that doesn't go under that access panel, but there is an electrical connector nearby for the wire harness. You want use a volt meter to see if that wire gets 12V when you turn the key to the II position.
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 18,398
From: Wisconsin
Yes, the pump needs to run continuously while the engine is running. The pump doesn't make that much noise, so you won't necessarily be able to hear it over the engine. The best test is to measure the fuel pressure.
I think if the fuel pump quit, it would kill the enigne completely, not just "bog it down".
I think if the fuel pump quit, it would kill the enigne completely, not just "bog it down".
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 8
I went and took my whole distributor assembly back and got a new one just in case it was the ICM or whatevr that is inside the distributor, but that didnt work. I had a lifetime warranty on it so no out of pocket there. But i also loosened the main fuel line going into the injectors and noticed that most of the time it is dry when i crank the engine, but every once in awhile it has fuel coming through it.
The car wont even start now so i dont know what to do
The car wont even start now so i dont know what to do
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 18,398
From: Wisconsin
While you crank the engine, fuel should be squirting out of there.
Find that yellow wire PA mentioned. Verify that it gets battery voltage for 2 seconds when you turn the key to ON. Then while cranking, it should again have battery voltage.
If that's good, and you still don't have fuel coming to the injectors, then you have a couple things to choose from.
- Inspect the fuel tube along the bottom of the car. Any kinks, squashed places, etc?
- Fuel filter plugged?
- Fuel pump running?
- If the tubing & filter is OK, I guess you'll have to go after the pump.
Find that yellow wire PA mentioned. Verify that it gets battery voltage for 2 seconds when you turn the key to ON. Then while cranking, it should again have battery voltage.
If that's good, and you still don't have fuel coming to the injectors, then you have a couple things to choose from.
- Inspect the fuel tube along the bottom of the car. Any kinks, squashed places, etc?
- Fuel filter plugged?
- Fuel pump running?
- If the tubing & filter is OK, I guess you'll have to go after the pump.
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