Injector confusion! Impossible!
#1
Injector confusion! Impossible!
Hello! Im having an issue with my 08 accord. It’s the v6 6mt. I’ve been hunting a misfire on cyclinder 6, and it’s confirmed an injector at this point. With the car running, if I remove the coil it makes no difference to rough idle. Also, I tested the coil and spark plug and they spark. When I pull out a spark plug from the engine with no coil attached after 30 seconds of running, it is bone dry. Injector #6 isn’t firing.
I relqized this, and took out the injectors to clean and test. With a 9v battery tested they all open and close. All good. Put them back in, same results. What’s up yall!?!? Is my ecu fried? Do I have a short? Does cyclinder 6 injector deactivate under certain conditions? Please help me
I relqized this, and took out the injectors to clean and test. With a 9v battery tested they all open and close. All good. Put them back in, same results. What’s up yall!?!? Is my ecu fried? Do I have a short? Does cyclinder 6 injector deactivate under certain conditions? Please help me
#2
I'm not sure on how the PCM manages shutting down cylinders to reduce gas mileage. I'm not sure if you tried this, but swapping the #6 injector with another cylinder easy to access keeps the misfire on #6, then the injector is ruled out. The same goes with swapping a coil pack from #6 to another cylinder to see if the misfire moves.
If coil and injector swaps keep the misfire at #6, then the next test would be to test the wiring to #6 injector. Each injector has 2 wires, where 1 wire will be the same color on all injectors. This will be the power (12V) side. Unplug the injector connector and use a volt meter and test for 12V between that wire and a good ground (like the negative battery terminal) with the key in the II position. If you have 12V, then do the same test with a test light between the 12V wire to the injector and the negative battery terminal. Let us know if you get a 12V reading and the test light turns on. The other wire to the injector is controlled by the PCM, so you do not want to test on this wire without some precautions, because you could send unnecessary power to the PCM and cause problems.
If coil and injector swaps keep the misfire at #6, then the next test would be to test the wiring to #6 injector. Each injector has 2 wires, where 1 wire will be the same color on all injectors. This will be the power (12V) side. Unplug the injector connector and use a volt meter and test for 12V between that wire and a good ground (like the negative battery terminal) with the key in the II position. If you have 12V, then do the same test with a test light between the 12V wire to the injector and the negative battery terminal. Let us know if you get a 12V reading and the test light turns on. The other wire to the injector is controlled by the PCM, so you do not want to test on this wire without some precautions, because you could send unnecessary power to the PCM and cause problems.
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