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Jolt in reverse when cold

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Old Jan 4, 2018 | 07:01 PM
  #1  
Pipe wrench's Avatar
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Default Jolt in reverse when cold

My 02 Honda Accord when cold will jolt when put in reverse. I noticed the front passenger side motor mount is broken. Could that mount cause the problem? Anyone else have this issue?
 
Old Jan 5, 2018 | 11:27 AM
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Engine? Transmission?

A broken mount can certainly cause that. Verify by opening the hood & have someone watch as you shift into reverse. Look for excess movement.

I'll assume an automatic transmission. When cold, the idle RPM is raised by the cold-start system. So maybe part of that jolt is simply because of engaging any gear while the RPM is above 1000 or so. So what is the RPM actually during a cold-start? Maybe the Base-idle setting could be checked??
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...e-speed-38734/
(If you have a V-6 then I'm not sure whether the Base idle business is any different)
 
Old Jan 6, 2018 | 08:38 AM
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Thanks for your reply. That makes sense. I do have a front mount broken. I just bought the car and that is a good logical answer.
 
Old Jan 8, 2018 | 07:17 AM
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You didn't answer what engine?

IF you have a 4-cyl automatic, the rear engine mount is also suspect. It's vacuum-operated, & supposed to get soft during idle in-gear (R or D) & hard all other times.
 
Old Jan 8, 2018 | 05:21 PM
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It's a 4cyl automatic.
 
Old Feb 23, 2018 | 08:42 AM
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Will this automatic transmission mount cause excessive vibration when instantly in need of a sudden braking? I guess I should be checking these mounts failure
 
Old Feb 23, 2018 | 09:47 AM
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Not sure if that scenario really pinpoints the failure, but here's how to check the vacuum-operated mount.

Get a helper you trust...

That rear mount (down low between trans & firewall) has a vacuum-hose connection. Check the hose for dry, cracking, broken, disconnected, stuff like that. Follow the hose to a solenoid valve nearby. Disconnect the electrical connection to that solenoid.

Have your helper in the driver's seat, with the engine running & all warmed up.
Shift into DRIVE or REVERSE and hold the brakes. Foot OFF the accelerator pedal.
You reach down & disconnect or reconnect that electrical connection.

There should be a noticeable difference in vibration with it unplugged vs. connected.

If there's no difference, you have to figure out:
- Bad engine mount - for example torn & leaking vacuum.
- Bad vacuum hoses - leaking vacuum.
- Bad solenoid valve - not switching open/closed.
- Bad wiring somewhere in the car...
 
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Old Feb 23, 2018 | 09:54 AM
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I'll do that, thank you so much for your time and advice.
 
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