Jolt in reverse when cold
#1
Jolt in reverse when cold
My 02 Honda Accord when cold will jolt when put in reverse. I noticed the front passenger side motor mount is broken. Could that mount cause the problem? Anyone else have this issue?
#2
Engine? Transmission?
A broken mount can certainly cause that. Verify by opening the hood & have someone watch as you shift into reverse. Look for excess movement.
I'll assume an automatic transmission. When cold, the idle RPM is raised by the cold-start system. So maybe part of that jolt is simply because of engaging any gear while the RPM is above 1000 or so. So what is the RPM actually during a cold-start? Maybe the Base-idle setting could be checked??
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...e-speed-38734/
(If you have a V-6 then I'm not sure whether the Base idle business is any different)
A broken mount can certainly cause that. Verify by opening the hood & have someone watch as you shift into reverse. Look for excess movement.
I'll assume an automatic transmission. When cold, the idle RPM is raised by the cold-start system. So maybe part of that jolt is simply because of engaging any gear while the RPM is above 1000 or so. So what is the RPM actually during a cold-start? Maybe the Base-idle setting could be checked??
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...e-speed-38734/
(If you have a V-6 then I'm not sure whether the Base idle business is any different)
#7
Not sure if that scenario really pinpoints the failure, but here's how to check the vacuum-operated mount.
Get a helper you trust...
That rear mount (down low between trans & firewall) has a vacuum-hose connection. Check the hose for dry, cracking, broken, disconnected, stuff like that. Follow the hose to a solenoid valve nearby. Disconnect the electrical connection to that solenoid.
Have your helper in the driver's seat, with the engine running & all warmed up.
Shift into DRIVE or REVERSE and hold the brakes. Foot OFF the accelerator pedal.
You reach down & disconnect or reconnect that electrical connection.
There should be a noticeable difference in vibration with it unplugged vs. connected.
If there's no difference, you have to figure out:
- Bad engine mount - for example torn & leaking vacuum.
- Bad vacuum hoses - leaking vacuum.
- Bad solenoid valve - not switching open/closed.
- Bad wiring somewhere in the car...
Get a helper you trust...
That rear mount (down low between trans & firewall) has a vacuum-hose connection. Check the hose for dry, cracking, broken, disconnected, stuff like that. Follow the hose to a solenoid valve nearby. Disconnect the electrical connection to that solenoid.
Have your helper in the driver's seat, with the engine running & all warmed up.
Shift into DRIVE or REVERSE and hold the brakes. Foot OFF the accelerator pedal.
You reach down & disconnect or reconnect that electrical connection.
There should be a noticeable difference in vibration with it unplugged vs. connected.
If there's no difference, you have to figure out:
- Bad engine mount - for example torn & leaking vacuum.
- Bad vacuum hoses - leaking vacuum.
- Bad solenoid valve - not switching open/closed.
- Bad wiring somewhere in the car...
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09-16-2017 06:33 AM