need help with 92 accord trans
OK, thought that would be next, just wanted to be sure before pulling it. Will post what I find, thanks for the confirmation.
I pulled the instrument cluster and all the drive indicator bulbs look visually OK and all show continuity across the connector pins. The back of the instrument panel circuit board though is damaged (signs of scorching and flaking) on the lower left (looking from the back, lower right looking from the front). Any ideas where I can get a new instrument cluster? ebay?
just checked ebay, several instrument clusters on there, will any of the 1992 clusters work or do I need to find one specific to my model? I have the 2 door model.
just checked ebay, several instrument clusters on there, will any of the 1992 clusters work or do I need to find one specific to my model? I have the 2 door model.
Last edited by biker9; Apr 20, 2013 at 03:05 PM. Reason: new information
Ebay is one source. Craigslist possibly for part outs. Honda forums as well.
A u-pull-it junkyard. Or go to car-part.com and search junkyards that subscribe to this site. You can sort by price or distance to see what is in your area.
A u-pull-it junkyard. Or go to car-part.com and search junkyards that subscribe to this site. You can sort by price or distance to see what is in your area.
Last night after installation of a used instrument cluster and reconnection of the battery the car drove fine. Upon cold start today it was in limp mode and the D4 indicator light stays on in all gears. The check engine light did not come on until I shut the engine off and back on. However, it did not stay on after a couple more times of turning it off and on the check engine light is no longer on.
I jumped the connector to get the codes but neither the D4 indicator or check engine light would flash. Any ideas???
I jumped the connector to get the codes but neither the D4 indicator or check engine light would flash. Any ideas???
After multiple attempts I do not get a code. Check engine light and D4 are illuminated, I guess that means code "0" which it appears indicates a problem with the ECM.
I believe the TCU in my car is good because: 1)when the codes are cleared the transmission works flawlessly, 2) the TCU was replaced a few years ago and 3) visual inspection of the TCU shows no leaking capacitors or burned resistors.
Guess I need to get an ECM, I have looked inside the ECM and it looks fine.
Is there anything else I should check before getting an ECM?
Also, any recommendations for a rebuilder or supplier of an ECM?
I believe the TCU in my car is good because: 1)when the codes are cleared the transmission works flawlessly, 2) the TCU was replaced a few years ago and 3) visual inspection of the TCU shows no leaking capacitors or burned resistors.
Guess I need to get an ECM, I have looked inside the ECM and it looks fine.
Is there anything else I should check before getting an ECM?
Also, any recommendations for a rebuilder or supplier of an ECM?
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Mar 6, 2012 02:32 PM




