Replacing Tie Rod Dust Seal Boots
No special tools needed. See pic, there is a "lock washer", once bent out of the way an open end wrench or maybe an adjustable wrench is all you need. There should be a "flat" part just where the threads on the inner part of the tie rod screws into the rack.
A stock 94 Accord. The bellows/boots on the rack are different - I know what "holms" said but that is wrong. Be careful of the "vent" tube on the bellows/boots. Not so much size or length....more of where the vent tubes connect.....and that/those tubes are important.
A stock 94 Accord. The bellows/boots on the rack are different - I know what "holms" said but that is wrong. Be careful of the "vent" tube on the bellows/boots. Not so much size or length....more of where the vent tubes connect.....and that/those tubes are important.
Now here is my situation and I am completely CONFUSED and LOST

1- I replaced both Inner/Outer tie-rods and bellow boots today.
Questions and Issues:
1- When I took the car for alignment, driver side bellow was COMPLETELY wrapped with the inner-tied rod and all the air was sucked from the boot, it's more looking like, rubber wrapped around the boot in a tight way, How and why? BTW, I bought the boot Genuine from the Honda dealership Part#53534-SV4-N01.
2- I touched Inner-tie rod for the passenger side, and seems like inner tie-rod was separated from the Rack, while boot was still intact fine. Not sure, how and why?
3- I bought inner tie-rod from Advance:
Buy Driveworks Steering Tie Rod End DW-EV342 at Advance Auto Parts
There is a cup shaped washer with it and not the Flat one, which I removed. I used my Original/Genuine ones, can I use these cup shaped, because if I use them, can't put my open end wrench and can't bent the washer either?
I have not yet looked at the car yet and still need to remove the boots to see, what's going on with passenger side inner tie-rod and why the driver side boot has no shape/air in it

I would appreciate any help, advice and guidance, since I am completely LOST
A few ideas.
Check the vent tube.
Also check the position of the boot on the inner tie rod. Meaning if the small end is "clamped" too far out then.
Def pull the boot and be sure the inner tie rod is connected and locked into the rack. In one of the pic's in this thread there is a view of how it goes together.
Check the vent tube.
Also check the position of the boot on the inner tie rod. Meaning if the small end is "clamped" too far out then.
Def pull the boot and be sure the inner tie rod is connected and locked into the rack. In one of the pic's in this thread there is a view of how it goes together.
Thanks so much for all the help, advice and cooperation for the tie rods and boots.
I was able to replace and put together everything back, AGAIN, today
Now going to take it for alignment Tuesday or Wednesday and will see how it goes.
1-Does anyone has alignment values/numbers for a stock car?
2-Is there anything I should be concerned or paying attention for alignment?
3-Honda dealer in my area has a special going on for Alignment, does it matter if I take to Honda or Pep Boys?
Thanks again for all the help, its much appreciated
I was able to replace and put together everything back, AGAIN, today

Now going to take it for alignment Tuesday or Wednesday and will see how it goes.
1-Does anyone has alignment values/numbers for a stock car?
2-Is there anything I should be concerned or paying attention for alignment?
3-Honda dealer in my area has a special going on for Alignment, does it matter if I take to Honda or Pep Boys?
Thanks again for all the help, its much appreciated
A few ideas.
Check the vent tube.
Also check the position of the boot on the inner tie rod. Meaning if the small end is "clamped" too far out then.
Def pull the boot and be sure the inner tie rod is connected and locked into the rack. In one of the pic's in this thread there is a view of how it goes together.
Check the vent tube.
Also check the position of the boot on the inner tie rod. Meaning if the small end is "clamped" too far out then.
Def pull the boot and be sure the inner tie rod is connected and locked into the rack. In one of the pic's in this thread there is a view of how it goes together.

While doing alignment, should the boot/bellow be moving? Seems like boot was wrapped because when tech was doing the alignment, he was moving the inner tie rod to adjust and during that time boot was like wrapped around the inner tie rod.
I pulled everything today, started from scratch and then locked the washers securely, hope it's nice and secure now
The bellows should have a vent.
Think about it like a cv boot, just add the vent. No there is nothing an alignment would do to cause an issue...they are moving the inner/outer tie rods by less than an inch....more like less than a 1/4 inch if you got close on the replacement,
Think about it like a cv boot, just add the vent. No there is nothing an alignment would do to cause an issue...they are moving the inner/outer tie rods by less than an inch....more like less than a 1/4 inch if you got close on the replacement,
The bellows should have a vent.
Think about it like a cv boot, just add the vent. No there is nothing an alignment would do to cause an issue...they are moving the inner/outer tie rods by less than an inch....more like less than a 1/4 inch if you got close on the replacement,
Think about it like a cv boot, just add the vent. No there is nothing an alignment would do to cause an issue...they are moving the inner/outer tie rods by less than an inch....more like less than a 1/4 inch if you got close on the replacement,

Thanks again for the tip and help, that definitely makes a lot of sense what you have said above

Really appreciate all the help, tips and cooperation.
Going to post back, if I run into any issue during alignment.
I know nothing, much less everything. I've learned by doing, reading, understanding, asking, messing up, messing up again and from listening to others.
This is a WE site. Meaning it takes all of the members to make it work.
Anyway, let us know the "end of the story"......THANKS
I know nothing, much less everything. I've learned by doing, reading, understanding, asking, messing up, messing up again and from listening to others.
This is a WE site. Meaning it takes all of the members to make it work.
Anyway, let us know the "end of the story"......THANKS
This is a WE site. Meaning it takes all of the members to make it work.
Anyway, let us know the "end of the story"......THANKS

Have a look on the attached alignment numbers
and see if something is jacked up?Thanks so much to all the help, cooperation and support.
Few key things, in case someone else is looking or doing something similar:
1- Car needs to be jacked up high enough on jack stands, so that it's easy to work on.
2- If you are replacing Original Inner tie rods, crush washer can be a real PITA, use flat head screw driver or something like a chisel to break it.
3- Bellow boots can be a PITA if you are trying to push them, so try to squeeze them in clockwise direction, while putting pressure from the inner tie rod end. Make sure while doing the boots, steering is pushed all the way, so it's easy to put the boot back on.
4- Take rough measurements for both driver and passenger side, while making sure that steering is centered, then put the outer tie rods back, else you would ruin the tires, even though if you are getting an alignment.
Please PM me if anyone has any questions.
Thanks again for all the help and cooperation
I hope you didn't pay for a 4-wheel alignment! They only adjusted toe-in.
To be fair, Caster looks OK, Camber is not adjustable, and toe-in was adjusted w/i specs.
Camber alignments suggest you may experience a Right lead or pull. You would have to install adjustable upper ball jts to get camber adjustment.
good luck
To be fair, Caster looks OK, Camber is not adjustable, and toe-in was adjusted w/i specs.
Camber alignments suggest you may experience a Right lead or pull. You would have to install adjustable upper ball jts to get camber adjustment.
good luck
I hope you didn't pay for a 4-wheel alignment! They only adjusted toe-in.
To be fair, Caster looks OK, Camber is not adjustable, and toe-in was adjusted w/i specs.
Camber alignments suggest you may experience a Right lead or pull. You would have to install adjustable upper ball jts to get camber adjustment.
good luck
To be fair, Caster looks OK, Camber is not adjustable, and toe-in was adjusted w/i specs.
Camber alignments suggest you may experience a Right lead or pull. You would have to install adjustable upper ball jts to get camber adjustment.
good luck
I paid like $40 for the alignment, not sure if it's 4-wheel or 2

But I don't need 4 wheels, since my car is FWD, right or?
One thing to note here is:
Previously on a straight road my steering "Honda symbol" used to be on the left side(Counter clockwise)
Now on a straight road my steering "Honda symbol" is very slightly towards the right(clockwise)
Is it a problem?If i continue to drive like this, does the tires wear out fast? Because I can still take the car back, have a warranty on it.


