I looked at your photo in post #46. Without actually measuring & calculating things, I would be nervous about having enough remaining material after enlarging the threaded hole in the end of the steering rack.

This is partly from how serious it would be if that came apart while driving. If it was the wheel on a garden cart I'd just go ahead & try it. But if it comes apart, it'll happen when it's under stress like taking a curve on the highway. Not something I'd want to figure out by trial & error.

 

I think, you guys have given me enough information and advice---NOT going to take a chance on it with any helicoil or something similar.

I am DEFINITELY planning to either replace the whole rack or just sell the car.

Thanks again for all the help, really appreciate it guys

 

One last question, I promise

Can I run bottoming tap to see if I can fix the threads inside the rack or anything similar which I can try/use to see if threads are fixable?

Because, if it'll work, I can just go ahead and change the inner tie-rod?

 

Well, if you have a "fresh" bolt or something with the same threads, you can check it before doing anything (new bolt from hardware store just for checking). The photo doesn't do a lot for me, maybe it's just the image compression on the web.

It's common (but not guaranteed) for the male threads to be damaged while the female threads are nearly intact. So a real good inspection makes sense.

All a tap can do is remove material. If a certain percentage of the original thread-material has already been removed from the hole, then you're still left with a weakened thread. A designer would have given some margin above the absolute minimum strength, but who can guess how much margin??

 

I have a new inner tie-rod and when I insert it into rack and try to hand tight it, it does not go all the way down into the rack.

I agree with the margin of strength and threads, but new inner tie-rod is not going all the way in, clearly means threads are stripped in the rack?

Let me take few more picts and will post them.

 

Sure, if the new one doesn't thread right in, then the IS some kind of damage on the rack's threads.

Threads inside the rack might be "bent" out of shape, and a tap will only remove them. It won't bend them back into position, and restore their original strength.

I think I'm never going to be completely comfortable with photos. The consequences are too severe if that thing comes loose at speed, so I won't "approve" the repair without seeing it firsthand.

Of course, you don't need MY approval. Just be sure you can convince yourself it's OK.

 

Yeah, I can clearly see threads are damaged. Truthfully, I don't need anyone's approval, but you guys know waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay better than me, so asking for advice and guidance.

I think, have no other choice than to replace the rack or just sell the car.

 

You don't want to use a tap on the rack. A tap is made to cut threads not repair them. it will enlarge the treads in the rack.

You want to use a thread chaser to fix the threads. I would get Honda Tie rod ends and be done with it. Thread the new tie rod in most of the way. Wiggly it to see if the fit is loose and if good to go torque it to specs. Just make sure the thread chaser is going in straight.

 

That sounds so helpful and good, what's a thread chaser?

Quick search brought up this one:
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...er-tap-237679/
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/thre...ap-163154.html

I appreciate your hep, I tried new inner tie rod and it's perfectly tight(NOT loose or wiggling), but doesn't go all the way down while hand tightening.

 

Punch this into Amazon CTA Tools 8240 Universal Rethreading Set, 53-Piece. It is similar to a tap but less aggressive. Fasteners are designed with a certain fit between them and after you retap one you then have a looser fit which isn’t what you want. I leaned this on the garage journey forum.