Right E-brake Not Engaging
#1
Right E-brake Not Engaging
Hello,
My right rear e-brake doesn't engage (disc brakes). The left side works fine and depressing the brake pedal engages both rear brakes normally.
Here is some background:
The right rear e-brake mechanism was seized in a half-open position. I know this because when I pulled up the e-brake, the mechanism on the caliper would move maybe 1-2mm; not enough to engage the brakes. It was this way for at least one year.
Today, I disassembled that section of the caliper (spring, nut, washer, and lever) and cleaned off all the rust. I also replaced the pads while I was at it. After reassembling, the mechanism moves freely again (in tandem with the e-brake) and opens/closes to its maximum travel.
However, even with the e-brake engaged, I can still spin the wheel freely. It's like the piston isn't actuating with the e-brake mechanism.
Any ideas?
My right rear e-brake doesn't engage (disc brakes). The left side works fine and depressing the brake pedal engages both rear brakes normally.
Here is some background:
The right rear e-brake mechanism was seized in a half-open position. I know this because when I pulled up the e-brake, the mechanism on the caliper would move maybe 1-2mm; not enough to engage the brakes. It was this way for at least one year.
Today, I disassembled that section of the caliper (spring, nut, washer, and lever) and cleaned off all the rust. I also replaced the pads while I was at it. After reassembling, the mechanism moves freely again (in tandem with the e-brake) and opens/closes to its maximum travel.
However, even with the e-brake engaged, I can still spin the wheel freely. It's like the piston isn't actuating with the e-brake mechanism.
Any ideas?
#2
After it was seized, maybe the auto-adjust mechanism inside the caliper isn't right??
When you put new pads in, you had to twist the piston to retract it & make room for the new pads. You can give the adjustment mechanism a head-start by not twisting the piston in all the way. Just far enough to get the pads installed & so they're not dragging. Sometimes if you retract them in fully, it takes forever to adjust itself to where it works.
I don't remember the auto-adjustment procedure, but thinking it's something like pulling the handbrake lever many times up & down. Or pull the caliper & spin the piston out a bit.
The real check will come as the pads wear down. The handbrake will either auto-adjust itself or not.
When you put new pads in, you had to twist the piston to retract it & make room for the new pads. You can give the adjustment mechanism a head-start by not twisting the piston in all the way. Just far enough to get the pads installed & so they're not dragging. Sometimes if you retract them in fully, it takes forever to adjust itself to where it works.
I don't remember the auto-adjustment procedure, but thinking it's something like pulling the handbrake lever many times up & down. Or pull the caliper & spin the piston out a bit.
The real check will come as the pads wear down. The handbrake will either auto-adjust itself or not.
#3
Thanks for the reply!
I did actually try pulling up and releasing the e-brake several times but it didn't seem to make a difference. I'll keep trying though.
Two additional observations:
1) This caliper's piston was noticeably more difficult to retract than the other side
2) Sometimes when I pull up the e-brake, I can feel more tension.
Do these help pinpoint the problem some?
I did actually try pulling up and releasing the e-brake several times but it didn't seem to make a difference. I'll keep trying though.
Two additional observations:
1) This caliper's piston was noticeably more difficult to retract than the other side
2) Sometimes when I pull up the e-brake, I can feel more tension.
Do these help pinpoint the problem some?
#4
#1 - The piston being more difficult to spin, makes me suspect some corrosion or other issues with the internal auto-adjust mechanism.
Your original post says it moves freely again. Did you mean the internals or just the action of the external lever?
I haven't actually taken the internal mechanism apart. When I had a similar problem, I got rebuilt calipers. For me, it was dragging brakes causing overheating & corrosion.
Your original post says it moves freely again. Did you mean the internals or just the action of the external lever?
I haven't actually taken the internal mechanism apart. When I had a similar problem, I got rebuilt calipers. For me, it was dragging brakes causing overheating & corrosion.
#5
The external lever moves freely. I can't tell if the internals are corroded or not, but I can move the lever by hand without needing leverage. I didn't check, but I'm pretty sure that the piston doesn't move in tandem with the external lever.
#6
Once the auto-adjust mechanism takes up it's slack, the piston should move with the lever. But it's not a huge obvious motion. You might have to hold the caliper in your hand & FEEL the piston moving rather than see it moving.
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FindingThePath
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06-03-2007 11:39 PM