I cannot locate the blue 2P service connector. Instead I have a blue 5P connector underneath the glove box.

I have replaced the distributor and I would like to check the timing but I dont know how to put the car into service mode. My manual states to bridge the 2P connector but I have a 5P one instead.

This is a 1997 Accord LS , RHD , 2.0l Auto, F20z1 engine, United Kingdom spec.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

There are a few other places to look for the 2 pin connector. Sometimes they are blue but usually they are gray. First remove the lower plastic side panel next to the glove box and check there. Second, pull up the carpet below the glove box and check near the computer. I am not familiar with the LS, but those are two areas that I have seen them hidden if it is not found under the glove box itself. Good luck.

 

Thanks -

Definitely not under the carpet.

I am not sure which plastic cover you refer to - by the door side or the one attached to central console?

Also, what is the 5pin connector for?

 

On many pre-OBD-II Honda models, they have both a pre-OBD-II Data Link Connector (DLC) and a Service Check Connector (SCS).

For pre-OBD-II U.S models and many other countries, there is a 3-P DLC connector used to hook up a diagnostic tool. The 2-P Service Check Connector can be used to retrieve engine and transmission trouble codes(s) by jumping the 2-P connector with a wire or small paper clip, turning on the ignition and counting the indicator lamp flashes. (See attached image at bottom of post.)

For pre-OBD-II, UK models, they usually had a 5-P DLC connector and the 2-P SCS. The 2-P service check connector usually should be close to the location of the DLC. This image is of a 98 Accord in the UK. Yours may be similar.






OBD-II models have a 16-P Data Link Connector. 95-97 U.S. Accord V6, 96-97 U.S. Accord 4 cylinders had both the 16-P DLC and the 2-P SCS. Subsequent year Accords 98 to current, only have the 16-P DLC/OBD-II port.

 

We call it the kick wall cover. For example it is one the opposite side for the car from the interior fuse panel. There should be a connector but I am just not sure where it would be on and LS from the UK.

 

Thanks - I think we are getting somewhere - you are great help.

I removed the panel - left side by the door - and I think I found the connector. Have a look at the pictures and let me know. One of the pictures shows the 5pin connector in its holder but also now we have another test connector , the orange one.
It seems I have the pre-OBD-II model

 

Orange connectors are ABS related.

 

See the two wire connector below what appears to be an eight wire connector in your first picture. It's a blue connector that is plugged in in the first picture. Disconnect that and look inside where it plugs in. If there are no metal contacts in there then it is a deadend receptical and should be the service connector. If there are two metal prong contacts in there then it is not the service connector so don't mess with it. FYI don't mess with yellow connectors as they are SRS and orange connectors are ABS as stated.

 

a quick update and another question
i have now managed to adjust the timing . it was out and now is spot on - thanks.

The other question. How do i read the DLC error codes? when bridging the service connector the engine light will go on and stay on - will not flash any codes.

i hope you guys can help me on this as well

many thanks to all of you

 

If the MIL light stays on while bridging or jumping the connector with the key on then there are no DTC codes stored and the system is good. If by chance the MIL light is on with the service connector/jumper wire removed then you can try clearing the system. To do so, with the key OFF, connect the jumper wire, remove the 7.5 amp Back Up fuse from the under hood fuse panel, wait at least 10 seconds to reset the ECM. Remove the jumper wire and reinstall the Back Up fuse. Start the car and see what happens with the light. It will come on at start up but will shut off shortly after.