Sound like a MFR problem?
#1
05-07-2007, 01:13 AM
Unregistered
Posts: n/a
Sound like a MFR problem?
I've got a '94 Accord. I'm either having a fuel pump problem or the MFR. The pump doesn't come on all the time when I turn the key to ON II. I've not consistently been listening for the pump but this problem happened on the first hot day of the year here in March, and this week has been very warm and it has happened three times this week.
I'd read that when you turn the key to this position, you're supposed to hear a click, then the check engine light is on for two seconds. Then when the light goes off, you're supposed to hear another click from the relay. Then a third click when you start, but you can't really hear it due to the starter. Today I cranked a lot and had no combustion, although I have compression and fire, so it must be fuel. Sometimes it would sputter to about 200 RPM but die.
It was pretty hot today and I had read this is also a problem. It was probably 88 degrees outside, and warmer inside. But tonight we had rain and and cold front so it was about 75 degrees inside my car. After all the stuff I did today, it finally started up. I drove it around my apartment complex and up the street, about five minutes. It drove great. I parked it, turned it off. I sat for a moment, then turned the key to the ON II position. I heard the first two clicks. I cranked, it fired, then sputtered and died. I tried to hear the clicks again, and I heard nothing. It then only cranked, but no attempt to fire up. I am thinking this is because everything warmed up, including the relay with voltage running through it.
I do not suspect fuel filter because I have no hesitation when giving it gas, and the symptoms are too tempting. I wish I had a volt meter, but I don't, and I'm a little edgy about driving to buy one only to get stranded.
If I get a voltage meter, what do I test? Look for 12 volts at the pump with the key in ON II, and if there's no pump action, then it means the relay is good and the pump is the culprit? But 0 volts means the relay is bad?
Thank you.
I'd read that when you turn the key to this position, you're supposed to hear a click, then the check engine light is on for two seconds. Then when the light goes off, you're supposed to hear another click from the relay. Then a third click when you start, but you can't really hear it due to the starter. Today I cranked a lot and had no combustion, although I have compression and fire, so it must be fuel. Sometimes it would sputter to about 200 RPM but die.
It was pretty hot today and I had read this is also a problem. It was probably 88 degrees outside, and warmer inside. But tonight we had rain and and cold front so it was about 75 degrees inside my car. After all the stuff I did today, it finally started up. I drove it around my apartment complex and up the street, about five minutes. It drove great. I parked it, turned it off. I sat for a moment, then turned the key to the ON II position. I heard the first two clicks. I cranked, it fired, then sputtered and died. I tried to hear the clicks again, and I heard nothing. It then only cranked, but no attempt to fire up. I am thinking this is because everything warmed up, including the relay with voltage running through it.
I do not suspect fuel filter because I have no hesitation when giving it gas, and the symptoms are too tempting. I wish I had a volt meter, but I don't, and I'm a little edgy about driving to buy one only to get stranded.
If I get a voltage meter, what do I test? Look for 12 volts at the pump with the key in ON II, and if there's no pump action, then it means the relay is good and the pump is the culprit? But 0 volts means the relay is bad?
Thank you.
#2
05-07-2007, 03:42 AM
RE: Sound like a MFR problem?
You are pretty much dead on about the fuel pump.
You unplug the fuel pump connection from under the spare tire in the trunk (3-pin connection), and check for 12V from the Black/Yellow wire to ground when you turn the key to ON. I think that you will only have voltage for a couple of seconds, so you will probably need someone to turn the key on for you while you test for voltage.
You unplug the fuel pump connection from under the spare tire in the trunk (3-pin connection), and check for 12V from the Black/Yellow wire to ground when you turn the key to ON. I think that you will only have voltage for a couple of seconds, so you will probably need someone to turn the key on for you while you test for voltage.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
solobaric6800w
Audio/Visual Electronics
42
01-10-2007 08:43 AM
