Special tools for timing belt replacments
#1
Special tools for timing belt replacments
I'm preparing myself for timing belt replacement on my 99 Accord this weekend. As per the recommendations, I am replacing the following:-
BELTS: timing, balancer, alt, p/s;
SEALS: cam, crank, bal shaft, upper plug, vcgasket;
WATER PUMP;
My questions:-
1) Do I really need the special tools, (cups, guides and drives) for installing shaft seals for cam, crank and bal? They are pretty expensive (about $150 total).
2) I didn't see in the manual for my model, 99EX, any bal shaft seal retainer. Could someone confirm?
3) I didn't see any lower plug o-ring seal under the rocker arm for the spark plug well either. True?
4) Any other specialized tools I might need? (I am all set with the tools for crank-pulley-bolt-breaking-open procedure, I think).
BELTS: timing, balancer, alt, p/s;
SEALS: cam, crank, bal shaft, upper plug, vcgasket;
WATER PUMP;
My questions:-
1) Do I really need the special tools, (cups, guides and drives) for installing shaft seals for cam, crank and bal? They are pretty expensive (about $150 total).
2) I didn't see in the manual for my model, 99EX, any bal shaft seal retainer. Could someone confirm?
3) I didn't see any lower plug o-ring seal under the rocker arm for the spark plug well either. True?
4) Any other specialized tools I might need? (I am all set with the tools for crank-pulley-bolt-breaking-open procedure, I think).
Last edited by faosh; 09-03-2009 at 04:33 PM.
#2
1) Others have used PVC pipe fittings, shop vac tapered tube to cut out seal presses. Ideally seal press OD should be slightly larger than OD of seal to allow pushing until seal press is flush w/ engine surface. Some have used a board to lever the seal press/seal into position.
2) Don't know. Ask Honda.
3) Don't know. Check your shop manual. You should have one for this job. Check Online Manuals for a download manual or buy one. Best investment for successful diy.
4) Sounds like you've got everything. An offset 12mm closed end is handy to reach the lock nut on the alternator adjustment mechanism (earlier models to 97, but may apply to you also).
Regarding your parts list, I would suggest replacing the TB tensioners or cleaning/repacking the bearings of the tensioners. Tensioners are not expensive. Tensioner bearing lubricant might not make it to the next TB change, and a frozen tensioner would cause catastrophic failure of timing belt, cylinder head valves, and maybe pistons. I've pulled one bearing that was over 200K and had dried grease. It definitely would not have made another TB interval.
good luck
2) Don't know. Ask Honda.
3) Don't know. Check your shop manual. You should have one for this job. Check Online Manuals for a download manual or buy one. Best investment for successful diy.
4) Sounds like you've got everything. An offset 12mm closed end is handy to reach the lock nut on the alternator adjustment mechanism (earlier models to 97, but may apply to you also).
Regarding your parts list, I would suggest replacing the TB tensioners or cleaning/repacking the bearings of the tensioners. Tensioners are not expensive. Tensioner bearing lubricant might not make it to the next TB change, and a frozen tensioner would cause catastrophic failure of timing belt, cylinder head valves, and maybe pistons. I've pulled one bearing that was over 200K and had dried grease. It definitely would not have made another TB interval.
good luck
#3
2) I think the seal retainers were afterwards add-on, because earlier engines had seals moving out of position. Sometime before 1998 Honda redesigned the head.
3) You don't have lower sparkplug tube seals. Redesigned head.
4) When I did my 1998, I don't remember anything too special other than that *#&$^ crank pulley bolt.
The timing belt tensioner bolt was awkward to reach, because some stuff was in the way. I had to use a breaker bar since there wasnt room for the larger ratchet head. Then the bolt had a pretty shallow head, so the socket kept slipping off. A socket with a more flat, square end would have been better.
3) You don't have lower sparkplug tube seals. Redesigned head.
4) When I did my 1998, I don't remember anything too special other than that *#&$^ crank pulley bolt.
The timing belt tensioner bolt was awkward to reach, because some stuff was in the way. I had to use a breaker bar since there wasnt room for the larger ratchet head. Then the bolt had a pretty shallow head, so the socket kept slipping off. A socket with a more flat, square end would have been better.
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