What is the easiest way to remove crank pully, can you use a impact wrench or do you need a special tool? If I need a tool, where can I get it or rent it? Any other tip besides also replace water pump.

 

Forgot to say its a 1994 ex with the 4 cylinder vtec.

 

An air impact wrench is the way to go, especially if it's an automatic. If it's a stick, you can put it in gear and use a breaker bar, but it's not easy.

Lately I've asked local shops to break the bolt free with their impact tools, and only retighten with a socket whench so I can drive it home and work on it. This is also a good idea on drive shaft nuts.

Rich

 

Search on this site. You will find LOTS of ideas on removing it...good and bad. But why kill yourself under the car?? After a rental impact wrench did nothing but give me a headache and make my ears ring, I did what gaugeman did on the crank pulley for my 99 Accord. Took it to a local station where the mechanic had the special tool. Up on the lift with the breaker bar. It took 2 mechanics with lots of leverage. I couldn't have done it lying on my back even if I had the tool! Well worth the $25. [sm=smiley20.gif]

Jeff

 

My local honda dealership would not break that bolt for me, so I bought the crank holding tool myself, because I don't have air tools.

Before I tried to loosen, I heated the bolt head with a propane torch. I let it cool down and doused it with PB-Blaster. I'm not sure if this helped at all, but I did it anyway.

I basically used and extension on the crank holding tool and wedged it into the subframe of the car. I bought a 19mm 1/2 inch drive impact socket and a long extension to get outside of the wheel well. I used the doughnut spare tire on the driver's side and turned the steering to the left to allow the extension to get outside of the car's body. I rested the extension on a jack stand to keep it perpindicular to the crank bolt. I used a breakerbar with a 5ft piece of pipe over it to get enough leverage to break the bolt. I stepped on the extension at the jack stand to hold it in place and started the pipe at the 2 o'clock position. The bolt broke loose at around the 9 o'clock position.

 

A very good air impact has a good chance of removal, however even the very best air impacts occasionally fail to break the bolt loose. On a couple of TB replacements, I ran into this problem and had to get 3rd party help. I now have the harmonic balance restaint tool, breaker bars, cheater pipe to perform manually. This is the surest way to break the bolt. It can be a bit alarming when the rotation of the breaker bar is 90 degrees or so after first load. This is due to torsional twist of extensions and bending of breaker bar under 600-900 ft-lbs of torque.

Actually, a torque multipler tool would beideal to eliminate the cheater pipe, but is a very expensive tool for a DIY'r. See following link. This provides 6:1 torque multiple so for 1200 ft-lbs you only pull 200 ft-lbs. That should get the job done. Only downside is price, $1000.

http://www.stanleyproto.com/default....que+Multiplier

good luck