Well i tore it back down..set crank with notch on lower timing cover..tdc one..and had upper cover off and set cam with UP up...the balance shafts are still alighned perfectly...everything lined up...the car has a new head on it...bought it non running...still runs the same...very rough idle one second..like a rapid dull tick..than smoothes out...kinda..if i take it to like 3000 rpm..in neutral..ruff climb. But runs very smooth at high rpm....little loud though..valves...puff puff sound at idle near cat..erratic out pipe..no smoke..

 

Yes they can. I believe the valves should be set to .008 inch.


But I do have to agree with PAhonda, in that we're missing something.
I'm wondering if the key for the cam gear is missing, and that's why it's not lining up. The gear should be straight up for setting #1 , and ALL of the other timing marks (including the balance shafts) should be in line as well.
Is it possible you got a timing belt for a VTEC engine, instead of a non-VTEC engine (uses a smaller 163 tooth belt)? I'm just asking, as it could happen, and that 1 tooth could make a difference.


I've replaced the belt on my 97 Accord (actually both belts), and everything went smooth. I rolled the engine over 6 times (turning it ccw) after install with the spark plugs out (made it easier to turn over by hand), and when I was done it came right back to where I started (ALL timing marks lined back up). I also did it that way on the 99 Accord I have here, as well as the 2000 Accord I have here (my wife's car). It's a way of double checking your work, but also making sure your valves aren't hitting the pistons (these are interference engines after all).

 

I'll take a video and post it. This is my third 97 and i have a 01 that i have changed the tb on..always the same..put pulley on tdc mark..spin crank if the Up is down..make sure UP is up and crank at TDC..#1 compression..but my rotor is at number #4...if i spin the crank 360 to get rotor to #1 the UP is down..and all the valves are loose and intake is lobe is 180 out..it has a new head..i bought it that way..never heard it run..at idle is sucks..I'll post a video....

 

It does line up..balance shafts too..just upside down..no engine light...im thinking injectors are faulty...thanks everyone

 

In that case, make sure you have 12 volts to the injector resistor pack (left rear corner of the engine bay). I only mention it, as I spent almost a month tracking down a no start/no run on my 97. It would run on satan fluid fed thru the brake booster hose, but not on it's own. Found that I was getting 3 volts at the resistor pack instead of the 12 needed to run the car (this was after chasing the wiring to the ECU and everything else). Once I fed 12 volts over to it, it fired right up and ran great. I drove it about 2 years or so, and now have it out front for sale. Still runs great. I think a power wire from the main relay that runs inside the door post got cut/broke somehow, as I just added a jumper wire in (from the main relay), and it's been working fine.

 

If done some work on it recently..the cam gear is upside down for some reason.i know this because i attached my leak down tester on #1.. Near the tb...and put a balloon on the tip..turned engine ccw and watched the intake valve open then close..next balloon pumped up..i also had a straw in #4 until it reached tdc..and the rotor is facing #1 but the cam UP is down..weeirddd..
the problem is the car has no power and runs crappy..i thought it was the converter and took it off..same result..cleaned egr ports..they were spotless
i have factory oem plugs..wires..cap..rotor..all new..at idle it will run smooth then make a rapid clicking sound..starts missing..then smoothes out..if i rev it up its real slow to wind up...coughs and sputtered all through the climb..the above parts have zero miles..
I did a compression test..160 cold on all cylinders..leak down at 100 psi shows 20% loss in all cylinders.
Car has 85,000 original miles..i did a valve adjustment..i made sure all the valves were loose on each cylinder at TDC..super loose..010 intake..012 exhaust..stone cold..
Dirty injectors? Still out of time?...bent valve?..whatever this rapid clicking noise at idle that makes it miss i think is the problem..when it stops the engine smooths out