update and new 1989 accord issue - seeking advice
ok i have a honda salvage yard that found an unloader, thermo a and b. since i broke the one with 3 nipples i have no choice. Will start with that and i guess while im under i may as well replace the other .. .IF i can even get to the parts from under... i can barely find and see the thermovalves from up top and doubtful i can get a small crescent wrench in there to loosen them. Anyone know if they or lefty loosy like you would expect or one of the backwards bastards?
Geeze had no idea those were also called ported vacuum switches... All the stores carry them new adn look exactly the same... the 3 port and two. So the 3 port is thermovalve A... adn they have two options for the 2 nipple ones.. do you happen to know what temperature theromovalve B operates at? The two parts are different temps.. one being 120 degrees and one 160.
parts came in today can i test these NOT installed on the car? The unloader i push the little metal pin and it slowly comes out... and i hear a hiss when i push it in. and the Thermo a and b.. any sugggestions?
Good news. Changed thermo A and it no longer hung at 2000. Was down to 1400 and adjusted screw now at 800 or so. Now battery light wont go out lol...new battery so have to check alternator. Thanks everyone
Progress 
Can't seem to find the spec's on "B"? Usually there is a stamping on the brass/metal base of them - look at the "hex" part for a marking might be in celcius.
If it turns out to be the alt - do not follow the "book" that says you have to pull the cv shaft to change it. I can walk you thru the steps to change the alt without removing the cv shaft.

Can't seem to find the spec's on "B"? Usually there is a stamping on the brass/metal base of them - look at the "hex" part for a marking might be in celcius.
If it turns out to be the alt - do not follow the "book" that says you have to pull the cv shaft to change it. I can walk you thru the steps to change the alt without removing the cv shaft.
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