Yes - I know this thread is 4 years old - but I just replaced the canister vent shut valve and canister and figured the pictures might help someone else, saving them from going to a dealer/dishonest shop and being taken for a ride.

Why? I had code P1457 on a 2000 Accord and thought this would be a good place to start to make it go away - I just did this and cleared the code today - so I will repost in about a month if it kept the code from coming back this time.

It is an easy beginner level project - but excessive rust makes things more challenging/costly.

Tools needed:
Jack
Jack stands
12mm socket
extension
ratchet
vice grips

Parts needed:
Canister Vent Shut Valve (rock auto purchase) - $40
Canister (advance auto - didn't plan on replacing this) $73


1. Jack up your car/support it appropriately near the rear left tire - the EVAP canister/valve is located near the left rear tire - basically under the back seat.

2. Remove all the hoses and 12mm bolt support the canister. There are many other bolts that you may think you need to remove, they are 10mm in size. I removed them - then found out it wasn't necessary. I felt dumb.

After the bolt is removed and the hoses are off you should be able to wiggle the canister with the canister vent shut valve still attached out of the vehicle. It may be easier to remove the bolt - wiggle - have better access to the hoses, then remove the hoses - wiggle some more - it will come.


3. Remove the two phillips head screws holding the canister vent shut valve on. I did not take a before photo of this - sorry. Good luck with this if you live in the rust belt - try vice grips and be very careful not to snap the screw like I did. If you do then your choices are to rig something up or buy a new canister for about 60 bucks. I probably could have found some other way to attach it - but did not want to be bothered by more trouble if it didn't work.




4. Reinstall in reverse order - good luck - if you have any Qs let me know I'll try to help :-)

 

I think I am due for this service, I plan on looking for the entire assembly at the at the BoneYard.
Is this an assembly that is still good to but used from a junker? or is it generally better to get Honda or Aftermarket parts?

BTW I just turned 140,000 mi and got 29mpg on the last tank.

 

thanks very much for your write-up, mygfdrivesahonda. i just had to perform the same maintenance on a 2002 honda accord and the details & pictures you provided proved invaluable. the honda i worked on is located in the rust belt, so i also ended up replacing the canister as the screws were corroded beyond repair. i soaked them in some pb blaster overnight, but it did little more than remove a few layers of caked on rust.

i sourced the shut valve online from majestic honda (make sure to order the screws) and it was $43 with tax & shipping. the canister was an after thought, but i ordered it online from advance auto parts, using a couple of online coupons i found just searching around. it ended up being $51 with tax, and i picked it up from a local store.

i used ramps instead of jacks/jack stands, and just backed the car up onto them. needle nose pliers also came in handy to remove/reattach a couple of the hoses with metal tighteners. as stated, it's a straightforward beginner level project.

couple other notes:
- i borrowed a obd sensor from a local auto parts store in order to determine the error code (p1457) for this particular issue. it's usually free, they just hold onto your drivers license until you return the unit (you can perform the scan quickly and easily in the parking lot)
- consider replacing the 12mm bolt that secures the canister in place. similar to the screws, the bolt was rusted out. stopped by a local hardware store and sourced a 13mm flange bolt that was just slightly longer than the original bolt. used a washer to make up the difference, all good.

 

Hello. I know this is an old thread but I just pulled the canister off of my 2000 Accord, code P1457. I am in NJ and the car has 178k miles on it. The 12 mm bolt was not too bad but the machine screws were rusted. I sprayed them with Knocker er Loose. One came loose when i hit the edge with a chisel and was then able to turn with a screw driver, the top one. The bottom one no such luck. I am using a vice grip to turn it. It seems to be turning but it is not coming out. I will use a dremel tool to cut the screw and then attempt to get the rest of it out. This is good information on this thread.