Worn-Out + Sticky Brake or Bad Bearing? - 09 Accord
#11
07-30-2014, 09:57 PM
The instructions regarding switching the rear caliper slide pins are included with the revised pads, they were never published as a Honda Technical Service Bulletin (TSB).
By now, all dealer should be selling the revised pads. The pad compound has been changed, which makes the biggest difference in premature wear. Switching the slide pin should help too. When I changed the rear pads, I actually forgot to put on the V springs because I was busy greasing the shims, etc. I didn't bother opening it back up to add the V springs, as changing pads is not a big deal to me. Even without the V springs, the rear brakes are lasting way longer than the original pads.
By now, all dealer should be selling the revised pads. The pad compound has been changed, which makes the biggest difference in premature wear. Switching the slide pin should help too. When I changed the rear pads, I actually forgot to put on the V springs because I was busy greasing the shims, etc. I didn't bother opening it back up to add the V springs, as changing pads is not a big deal to me. Even without the V springs, the rear brakes are lasting way longer than the original pads.
I see. I'll hope that Handa sells the revised pads. Perfect, this should work smoothly.
Last question. At times (mainly in colder weather), when I put my car in park as I pull up to my driveway, as the car shifts up and down very slightly (since it was just switched from drive to park), I hear a strange sound in the back of the car, which I'm assuming is most likely the brakes because it only happens once the car is in park. It's hard to explain the sound but the best way I can explain it is that it sounds like the brakes are moving and shifting around. I assumed it's most likely not an issue and has something to do with the rear brakes and the pads holding the car still while it's in park, but if you (or anyone else) could give an explanation of what that sound is, that would be awesome.
If not, I should be set here, thanks for the help.
#12
08-05-2014, 08:08 AM
One kind of noise there is perfectly normal, like this:
When you put the transmission in PARK, then release the brake pedal, the car rolls a tiny amount until it's held by the transmission. If you still have your foot lightly on the brake pedal while this is happening, the brakes will sometimes make a creaking sound as they move.
If you set the handbrake tightly before letting go of the brake pedal, does it still creak? Then maybe the noise is coming from some worn rear-suspension bushings? Or maybe the handbrake doesn't hold the car completely and you're hearing the rear brakes sliding a bit?
If you set the handbrake, you might hear a similar sound as you climb in or out of the car. Again, it's the brakes moving as the suspension flexes.
In any case, it's not a very loud sound. Clunking or any other ugly kind of sound, you might want to have a look at all the bushings & links in the rear suspension.
When you put the transmission in PARK, then release the brake pedal, the car rolls a tiny amount until it's held by the transmission. If you still have your foot lightly on the brake pedal while this is happening, the brakes will sometimes make a creaking sound as they move.
If you set the handbrake tightly before letting go of the brake pedal, does it still creak? Then maybe the noise is coming from some worn rear-suspension bushings? Or maybe the handbrake doesn't hold the car completely and you're hearing the rear brakes sliding a bit?
If you set the handbrake, you might hear a similar sound as you climb in or out of the car. Again, it's the brakes moving as the suspension flexes.
In any case, it's not a very loud sound. Clunking or any other ugly kind of sound, you might want to have a look at all the bushings & links in the rear suspension.
#13
12-15-2015, 11:56 PM
Caliper- will it be ok to buy other brand than Honda?
Hi, right read caliper was stucked and had it replaced by non Honda shop with al calbone brand but it looks smaller than honda caliper. Is it ok or I must have Honda caliper ?
1. The brake pad wear indicator is only on one edge of the inner pad. There is no wear indicator on the outer pad. You normally have to at least jack up the car to examine the inner pads. Unless you have brake lining thickness gauges to stick in to the inner pad without removing the wheel, removing the wheel to inspect is the way. Although the caliper has an inspection hole in the center, sometimes, there may be uneven wear on one end of the pad; so the pad wear may actually even be worse than what you see by just looking through the inspection hole in the caliper, without lifting the caliper to see.
2. If the pads are wearing down to where the indicator is, it can make noise even if you don’t step on the brake pedal. The Honda calipers are a floating type (sliding), it moves in and out relative to the rotor and has one only on the inboard side of the rotor. As your pads wear, the piston extends out closer to the rotor. When the pads are really thin and almost completely worn, the caliper will hold the pad close enough to cause the wear indicator to make noise even if the brakes are not applied, especially if there is uneven pad wear on one side. Initially, the brake noise from the wear indicator may not always make noise even if you don’t apply the brakes, as the wear indicator may not always be in contact with the rotor. Eventually, if the pads are not changed, it will make noise almost all the time.
3. The 2009 Accord has the Traction Control System (TCS). Although this won’t happen that often, if one wheel loses traction, the VSA-modulator control unit can apply braking pressure to the spinning wheel, even when you don’t press the brake pedal.
4. The Honda brake pad kits usually just come with the pads, M-77 moly grease, shims, and V springs (with the revised Honda rear pads). The moly grease is to be used on the shims, pad backing plates, and retainers. The kits doesn’t include the grease for the caliper slide pins. Do not use the M-77 grease on the slide pins. Use something like high-temperature silicone brake grease on the slide pins.
5. Before installing the rear pads, you should turn the pistons so that the piston grooves (cut-out) aligns with inner pad tab.
2. If the pads are wearing down to where the indicator is, it can make noise even if you don’t step on the brake pedal. The Honda calipers are a floating type (sliding), it moves in and out relative to the rotor and has one only on the inboard side of the rotor. As your pads wear, the piston extends out closer to the rotor. When the pads are really thin and almost completely worn, the caliper will hold the pad close enough to cause the wear indicator to make noise even if the brakes are not applied, especially if there is uneven pad wear on one side. Initially, the brake noise from the wear indicator may not always make noise even if you don’t apply the brakes, as the wear indicator may not always be in contact with the rotor. Eventually, if the pads are not changed, it will make noise almost all the time.
3. The 2009 Accord has the Traction Control System (TCS). Although this won’t happen that often, if one wheel loses traction, the VSA-modulator control unit can apply braking pressure to the spinning wheel, even when you don’t press the brake pedal.
4. The Honda brake pad kits usually just come with the pads, M-77 moly grease, shims, and V springs (with the revised Honda rear pads). The moly grease is to be used on the shims, pad backing plates, and retainers. The kits doesn’t include the grease for the caliper slide pins. Do not use the M-77 grease on the slide pins. Use something like high-temperature silicone brake grease on the slide pins.
5. Before installing the rear pads, you should turn the pistons so that the piston grooves (cut-out) aligns with inner pad tab.
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