The other morning I started my accord to let it warm up because it was 32 degrees outside. I let it idle for about 15-20 minutes. Drove it to my local gas station. Turned of the engine and pumped gas into the car. When I went to start the engine back up, the car kinda hesitated to start but after a few seconds it did turn over and was running smoothly until I pulled out on the main highway and went to accelerate and around 2nd gear it kinda jerked a little but shifted and drove fine to my destination and back home. An hour later after arriving home, I started the car again to drive my daughter to school and the engine light was blinking and the car didn’t not want to accelerate passed 20mph. I replaced the spark plugs and that did not fix it so I have a code reader that we hooked up to it and it was saying cylinder misfire on multiple cylinders and crankshaft sensor error. So we replaced the crankshaft sensor. And although it resolved the crankshaft sensor code, it still was saying multiple misfires on cylinders 2 and 3 and the engine light continues to blink. And of course the car is still struggling to drive over 20mph. Also, the VSA light is on too! I got a lot of money to take it to a mechanic shop so trying to troubleshoot and fix it myself. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

Keep the original crank sensor, especially if you bought an aftermarket, because aftermarket parts can have shorter lifespans and the quality is not to par as Honda OEM sensors in my opinion.

I'd start with the simplest explanation, when you may have filled up with bad gasoline. I'd recommend draining the gasoline in the tank. You may take a shot at adding fuel stabilizer to tank to get any separated water dissolved in the gasoline. Also, was there a fuel delivery truck filling up the gas station's tanks while you were filling up your accord?

The shop manual procedure is to remove the back seat, remove the fuel pump, then use a hand pump to pump out the gasoline. You can also get some fuel hose and siphon the fuel out of the tank.

Regardless of how you remove the fuel, fill it up with fresh gasoline, and probably some fuel stabilizer.

 

Ok so update on the car from hell, we have removed all the gas out of the tank and replaced with new gas. We tested the injectors and they are good to go. We cleaned out the catalytic converter. We also checked the fuel pump and filter as well, and it was good too. However the car is still illuminating the check engine light & sending off same codes which indicates multiple misfires and misfire on cylinder 2 & 3. Please help! Any recommendations or ideas would be appreciated!

 

Have you done a smoke test.

 

Just guessing here... check the wires and sparkplugs going to Cyl 2 and 3.
Also check the ignition coils for 2 and 3 ( not familiar with 2008, but some cars have ignition coils for each cyl.)

If you have coils for each cylinder, try swapping #1 and # 2 coils, and if the misfire moves to #1, then you know the coil is bad on #1.
Then Repeat for #3 and #4

 

So since my last post we have done few things and ending up replacing the MAP sensor. Prior to that we did check the injectors, coil packs, fuel pump, fuel filter, crankshaft sensor was replaced, catalytic converter was cleaned, we also checked the car for bad gasoline and ultimately after unplugging the MAP sensor the car was driving better so we figured it was a the MAP sensor which we replaced. The car begin running great for a couple days after replacing the MAP sensor and now it’s back to square one which the check engine light blinking, struggling to drive ( like it’s starving for power) sometimes it will also hesitate to crank. And the engine codes it’s sending out is a knock sensor code and a crankshaft sensor code again....

 

With this new information... try unplugging the MAP sensor again and see if it improves like you did in the previous post.
If it does improve:
1) check the wires going to the sensor for scraped/bare insulation,
2) check connector to MAP sensor,
3) What brand MAP sensor did you get?

If not, then I would replace the crankshaft sensor- but get a good brand! Also check the connector and wires going to the crankshaft sensor. What made you decide to replace this in post #6?
I would ignore the knock sensor code for now.

I would clear the codes and next time, give us the codes in the same order that you read them. We need the actual codes. The order is important.

 

Before replacing any more parts, what is the actual code you are getting from the PCM?