Ok I tried a few more things and checked a few more things! I changed the distributor and before doing that there was no CEL. Once I changed the distributor the CEL came on and was only showed one code which was engine coolant thermostat sensor 1. Upon looking I got all excited because the freaking thing was unplugged. And it was saying it controlled amount of fuel injectors puts out. I plugged it in, immediately the CEL went off, attempted to start....SAME PROBLEM!!! Crank no start.

A friend that’s a mechanic is saying that when I take a spark plug wire off, even though the plug is pretty long, I should be able to hold it to the block and see a spark shooting out from the end of the plug. Is this true? He is saying I am not getting enough spark to make it start.

I have tried squirting fluid into the intake and it won’t start or hit at all.

What else could be causing this? I’m ready to pull my hair out. I am really trying to avoid paying a tow bill and having it hooked to a computer but it’s looking like my options are running out.

One other thing I wanted to ask, the factory radio is saying “CODE.” I know that’s anti theft but would this cause the car not to start? I’m literally grasping at straws.

 

The CODE is just for the radio and will not prevent the car from starting.

I never tested spark the way your mechanic friend suggested. I just bought a spark tester where you can adjust the gap that was inexpensive. The spark testers have a scale on the back, so you have an approximate minimal voltage that should jump the gap. The necessary voltage to jump a gap will increase as the gap increases.

You said you replaced the distributor, but did the new distributor come with a new coil? How about the ignition control module (aka igniter)?

 

That method for checking the spark is pretty old & probably not good. Here's why...

Decades ago, common spark plug wires had a rubber boot that didn't extend down very far over the body of the spark plug. So when you did that, the spark only had to jump a distance of 1/4 or 1/2 inch. And what you really did was push the rubber boot back up the wire so the actual metal snap comes nearly out of that rubber boot. Better yet, it was more common to stick a screwdriver into the end of the plug wire, then hold the screwdriver about 1/8 or 1/4 inch away from some steel bracket or good ground. You routinely got a shock when trying that, and you just laughed it off. Today the secondary voltage from the coil is maybe 5 or 10 times higher, and it's less funny if you get shocked...

 

I checked and the ignition switch that was recalled on this vehicle was never changed. It still had the sheer bolts around the steering column instead of new ones that come with dealership/factory kit with the heads. Even before changing this, I followed this video below and was getting nothing. No matter where I stuck the continuity meter. I changed the ignition switch, and still the exact same thing is happening. (I am referring to the brown plug down by the fuse box on drivers side that goes up to the ignition switch.

What would make this not get the 12V it should
be getting? Again, I followed the below video, and even after changing the ignition switch I get nothing! The part I’m referring to is at about the 4:00 mark!

Thanks again for any and all help! I appreciate you guys (and gals) more than you know!

 

You said you are not getting 12V, but the video is saying to test continuity on the volt meter. Continuity is similar to a resistance test, where the volt meter tells you if the circuit is open vs closed circuit. Test that your meter is properly reading continuity by touching the meter leads together, where the meter should beep and read closed circuit.

Also the video is testing the side of the connector that is connected to the ignition switch, and not test the side that is part of the car's wiring harness.

 

Yes I did it just as the video shows. I meant no matter where you turned the switch the light doesn’t come on. The guy that actually made the video replied and gave me some ideas to try as soon as it warms up!

 

Are you using a test light, or are you using a volt meter to do this test?