2004 Accord V6 auto trans issue
I have a thread on another accord forum, just seeing if a different set of eyes can shed some light. I have been reading up on the various issues this particular tranny has...
Started delaying moving when cold, from park to D. Going into R was/is fine.
Then progressed to almost erractic type shifting, all symptoms seemed better when warm.
I changed the fluid to new DW1, and changed the 2/3 pressure switch which was the first piece of advice the interweb told me...
Car was great for a week. Then the whole process started again, with a twist.
Car just stopped moving forward mid drive, like it was flipped into neutral. Only reverse engaged.
Car was towed home.
I started thinking about the fact that I had the battery out to get at the pressure switch, and maybe a computer reset is what actually masked as a correction.
So, started the car later that day, put it in D, no go.
Pulled the neg cable for 10 mins....
Started the car again, and it drives like new.
Theories floated on the other forum;
- shift solenoids, particularly the two A and B ones beside and below the starter
- Torque converter burning/burnt out. Suggestion was after reset only drive in D3 (avoiding overdrive) and see if it fails again, this would confirm the converter is bad
Any other thoughts?
I am taking into an import trans shop friday after work for a Monday scan. I am trying to limit my exposure cost wise, its my sons car and he is in school
Started delaying moving when cold, from park to D. Going into R was/is fine.
Then progressed to almost erractic type shifting, all symptoms seemed better when warm.
I changed the fluid to new DW1, and changed the 2/3 pressure switch which was the first piece of advice the interweb told me...
Car was great for a week. Then the whole process started again, with a twist.
Car just stopped moving forward mid drive, like it was flipped into neutral. Only reverse engaged.
Car was towed home.
I started thinking about the fact that I had the battery out to get at the pressure switch, and maybe a computer reset is what actually masked as a correction.
So, started the car later that day, put it in D, no go.
Pulled the neg cable for 10 mins....
Started the car again, and it drives like new.
Theories floated on the other forum;
- shift solenoids, particularly the two A and B ones beside and below the starter
- Torque converter burning/burnt out. Suggestion was after reset only drive in D3 (avoiding overdrive) and see if it fails again, this would confirm the converter is bad
Any other thoughts?
I am taking into an import trans shop friday after work for a Monday scan. I am trying to limit my exposure cost wise, its my sons car and he is in school
Transmissions are tough to diagnose over the web. How did the old fluid look when you drained it? Any metal flakes or particulates in the oil?
Scanning for codes can help narrow down the diagnosis if your car has any stored codes.
This can be an internal hydraulic issue, where the transmission needs rebuilt/replaced, or an electronic issue.
If you can consistently get the car to drive normally by pulling the negative battery cable, then I'd lean towards a problem with the electronic controls like the PCM, wiring, solenoids.
Was any work done on the car before you had this issue?
Scanning for codes can help narrow down the diagnosis if your car has any stored codes.
This can be an internal hydraulic issue, where the transmission needs rebuilt/replaced, or an electronic issue.
If you can consistently get the car to drive normally by pulling the negative battery cable, then I'd lean towards a problem with the electronic controls like the PCM, wiring, solenoids.
Was any work done on the car before you had this issue?
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