94 Accord LX no spark Help Please!
The only component you haven't checked is the ECM. When you turn keyswitch to On, does the Check Engine Light come on for 2 secs and go off, or never comes on at all? If it never comes on, the ECM needs to be checked per the shop manual for faults; electrical or ECM.
Faulty ECM's do happen but they are rare. Since everything else has been checked, I would look to this component.
If you don't have a shop manual download the 94-97 manual from the Online Manuals links in DIY forum.
good luck
Faulty ECM's do happen but they are rare. Since everything else has been checked, I would look to this component.
If you don't have a shop manual download the 94-97 manual from the Online Manuals links in DIY forum.
good luck
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Texas and Jim
The check engine light comes on when ever I turn on the key and stays on until I turn off the key.
The D4 green flashing shift indicator light also comes on with the key and flashes on and off until I turn off the key.
I will also note- When I turn the key on the fuel pump does not cycle but if I ground the #3 terminal on the main relay with my test light the pump runs until I remove my test light.
So now I have no spark and the fuel pump is also not working when the key is turned on. Again I also replaced the the main relay and it still will not fire.
What am I missing???
Help!!!!
The check engine light comes on when ever I turn on the key and stays on until I turn off the key.
The D4 green flashing shift indicator light also comes on with the key and flashes on and off until I turn off the key.
I will also note- When I turn the key on the fuel pump does not cycle but if I ground the #3 terminal on the main relay with my test light the pump runs until I remove my test light.
So now I have no spark and the fuel pump is also not working when the key is turned on. Again I also replaced the the main relay and it still will not fire.
What am I missing???
Help!!!!
Pin 3 should be directly connected to ground. If no ground is available on the wire to pin 3, you have a wiring fault. However, If you are grounding pin 1, you are supplying ground that would be supplied by ECM. This could mean ECM is faulty or denying ground because some other condition indicates car should not be started. Check wire to Pin 3 for ground availability. A bad MFR harness connector might also cause this problem.
You might recheck the ECU and TCU to see what codes are stored. I'm not aware of any codes that would disable starting however.
Lack of fuel supply and lack of spark are likely separate problems. I would focus on spark as this is most difficult to fix. If power and ground are available to distributor, it should fire. If not something in distributor or coil is defective. Just saying it's new won't solve your problem.
good luck
You might recheck the ECU and TCU to see what codes are stored. I'm not aware of any codes that would disable starting however.
Lack of fuel supply and lack of spark are likely separate problems. I would focus on spark as this is most difficult to fix. If power and ground are available to distributor, it should fire. If not something in distributor or coil is defective. Just saying it's new won't solve your problem.
good luck
Just to rule out wiring faults, check the plugs on the ECU. I've heard of ECU wiring plugs where 1 or 2 of the individual pins have backed out of the plug, so those wires aren't connected to the ECU.
When that happened, it drove the guy nuts (along with a couple of us who were helping).
When that happened, it drove the guy nuts (along with a couple of us who were helping).
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Just to rule out wiring faults, check the plugs on the ECU. I've heard of ECU wiring plugs where 1 or 2 of the individual pins have backed out of the plug, so those wires aren't connected to the ECU.
When that happened, it drove the guy nuts (along with a couple of us who were helping).
When that happened, it drove the guy nuts (along with a couple of us who were helping).
I got back on the Honda today. Finally think I found the problem. After much diagnosis today I found the ECU located under the passengers feet. What a stupid place to put electronic's.
At any rate I was going to just verify that all the connectors were okay. When I repositoned the ECU to look at it, I heard something rolling around inside the metal housing. When I removed the cover I found a burned spot on the board and a small capacitor looking thing was rolling around inside on the circuit board. The short was near the end of the board near the middle connector. This thing shorted out bad. I can't beleive it didn't blow a fuse or something. I will post pictures later.
Thanks to all who helped me!
OUCH! Sorry it's fried, but kinda glad you found what it was. Let us know when it's fixed.
Later years, they moved the ECU to the center, right on the exhaust hump between the gas pedal & the passenger's left foot.
Later years, they moved the ECU to the center, right on the exhaust hump between the gas pedal & the passenger's left foot.
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