Auto transmission
#1
Auto transmission
Need help so my 98 accord auto trans 4 cylinder won't shift out of park I have to get really rough with the button once out of park it's fine but as soon as I go back to park I have to bang the button a few times to go in to gear
#3
Hello Matt
Thank You for joining the HAf..Ive moved you to the correct forum for your question..Please make sure you follow the posting rules as to where your post's go from now on..
Again Thank You For Joining.
WheelBrokerAng
Thank You for joining the HAf..Ive moved you to the correct forum for your question..Please make sure you follow the posting rules as to where your post's go from now on..
Again Thank You For Joining.
WheelBrokerAng
#4
Hey Jim!
And Thank You Jim for moving to here also. lol
#5
Sounds like you need to take the shifter **** out, and I would bet the plastic, "button" is most likely broken.
#6
Some possible culprits:
• Blown fuse – First check under-hood Fuse no. 47 (20A). Also check driver’s side under-dash Fuse no. 9 (7.5A) – Not likely to be due to blown fuses if there are no other problems ; but, at least check under-hood Fuse no. 47.
• Wiring issue - short or open (break) in wiring
• Brake pedal position switch
• Throttle position sensor - The voltage needs to be at less than .5 volts (this essentially tells the PCM the accelerator pedal is not depressed and the throttle is closed). If it is at a higher voltage, the PCM thinks the accelerator is depressed and the throttle is open and prevents the shift lock solenoid from energizing (you won’t be able to shift out of Park).
You can try unplugging the connector to the TPS, you’ll get a Check Engine Light; but, see if you can shift out of Park.
• PCM (Powertrain Control Module)
• Transmission Range Switch – Is the P light on? Can be faulty even if P light is on.
This is how the shift position interlock works:
When you push the brake pedal, battery voltage is sent through a WHT/BLK wire to the PCM. If, at the same time, you do not push the accelerator pedal, a low voltage signal is sent from the TPS through a RED/BLK wire to the PCM. The PCM then applies voltage through a WHT/RED wire to the shift lock circuit in the driver’s multiplex control unit. When you move the A/T shift lever from the PARK position, ground is provided to the shift lock solenoid. The solenoid is then energized allowing the shift lever to be moved from the PARK position.
• Blown fuse – First check under-hood Fuse no. 47 (20A). Also check driver’s side under-dash Fuse no. 9 (7.5A) – Not likely to be due to blown fuses if there are no other problems ; but, at least check under-hood Fuse no. 47.
• Wiring issue - short or open (break) in wiring
• Brake pedal position switch
• Throttle position sensor - The voltage needs to be at less than .5 volts (this essentially tells the PCM the accelerator pedal is not depressed and the throttle is closed). If it is at a higher voltage, the PCM thinks the accelerator is depressed and the throttle is open and prevents the shift lock solenoid from energizing (you won’t be able to shift out of Park).
You can try unplugging the connector to the TPS, you’ll get a Check Engine Light; but, see if you can shift out of Park.
• PCM (Powertrain Control Module)
• Transmission Range Switch – Is the P light on? Can be faulty even if P light is on.
This is how the shift position interlock works:
When you push the brake pedal, battery voltage is sent through a WHT/BLK wire to the PCM. If, at the same time, you do not push the accelerator pedal, a low voltage signal is sent from the TPS through a RED/BLK wire to the PCM. The PCM then applies voltage through a WHT/RED wire to the shift lock circuit in the driver’s multiplex control unit. When you move the A/T shift lever from the PARK position, ground is provided to the shift lock solenoid. The solenoid is then energized allowing the shift lever to be moved from the PARK position.
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