Time to perform a check of thermoswitch A. Put in boiling water and check contacts are closed. Test is described in shop manual.

If thermoswitch A tests good, then you must have a damaged connector that is somehow not allowing circuit to close despite thermoswitch A being closed.

good luck

 

Alright guys, I replaced thermo switch b, which is the one that's located in the front of the engine by the upper radiator hose and the fans now kick on. But they don't kick on until 3/5's way up on the gauge. I'm assuming its because the duralast switch isn't set to oem temp. When the fan kicks on it only stays on for about 10 seconds then shuts off. Then comes back in in 45 seconds then shuts off after 10 seconds. The gauge never goes past 3/4 mark.

 

Thermoswitch B is designed to come on at 225F, even w/ keyswitch OFF. It's supposed to protect against excessive heating when hot engine is stopped abruptly.

good luck

 

So thermo switch B is now functioning but switch A isn't?

 

Yes, the jumper test confirmed the wiring is good up to the connector. Either bad connector or switch.

good luck

 

Some one told me about a fan timer module, what's the module designated to do?

 

Module is an electrical bus and contains a timer for thermoswitch B to run 15 mins w/ key off.

Since jumper caused fans to run, there is no problem w/ fan control module. Look at a wiring diagram and this will be clear.

good luck

 

Possible thermostat not opening at correct temperature?

 

If temp is normal while moving forward at speed, the thermostat is not the problem.

good luck

 

So it's back to a faulty thermo switch a ?