Cranks, but won't start
1999 Honda Accord EX.
No check engine light.
Drove it home and parked it. Next day it cranks but won't start.
Still no check engine light
I replaced the fuel pump. (was probably time anyway)
I replaced the fuel pump relay and checked the fuse.
I checked for spark which seemed fine, but I replaced all the spark plugs and wires.
I replaced the distributor cap and the rotor.
There's definitely gas in the tank and the battery is fully charged.
Any suggestions as to what's next?
It drove fine that night and then stopped working that morning.
No check engine light.
Drove it home and parked it. Next day it cranks but won't start.
Still no check engine light
I replaced the fuel pump. (was probably time anyway)
I replaced the fuel pump relay and checked the fuse.
I checked for spark which seemed fine, but I replaced all the spark plugs and wires.
I replaced the distributor cap and the rotor.
There's definitely gas in the tank and the battery is fully charged.
Any suggestions as to what's next?
It drove fine that night and then stopped working that morning.
A crank/no-start can be caused by problem(s) with fuel, spark, spark/distributor timing, timing belt/compression or clogged exhaust. Any one of these items could be your problem. The challenge is to eliminate these items by testing and not throwing parts at the problem. You can not assume a new part is working, as I've seen some new parts fail out of the box or incorrectly installed.
A quick test for fuel is to remove the snorkel from the throttle body and have an assistant spray starter fluid into the throttle bore while you try to start the vehicle. If the car does fire up and runs poorly, then you'll need to diagnose further as to why the cylinders aren't getting fuel.
Your spark test verifies the timing belt is intact and the coil is firing. It doesn't rule out a weak spark, distributor timing, or timing belt jumping some teeth.
If you have a timing light, current from a strong spark will flash the timing light. Some parts stores spark testers have an adjustable gap with a scale to estimate how strong of a spark you have.
For distributor timing, you can install a distributor 180 off, so the spark is getting to the cylinder at the wrong time. I did this on my old accord and was aware of the posibility. To check, you need to get cylinder 1 to top dead center by mechanically turning the engine by hand on the crank bolt. There is a good and now old eric the car guy video on how to do this. Once at top dead center, remove the distributor cap and see if the contact on the rotor is pointing towards the #1 spark plug wire on the distributor cap.
Make sure you have the spark plug wire installed in the correct order on the distributor cap. Starting at cylinder 1 on the distributor cap and going clockwise looking from the passenger side of your car, the spark plug wire order is 1 - 3 - 4 - 2.
A quick test for fuel is to remove the snorkel from the throttle body and have an assistant spray starter fluid into the throttle bore while you try to start the vehicle. If the car does fire up and runs poorly, then you'll need to diagnose further as to why the cylinders aren't getting fuel.
Your spark test verifies the timing belt is intact and the coil is firing. It doesn't rule out a weak spark, distributor timing, or timing belt jumping some teeth.
If you have a timing light, current from a strong spark will flash the timing light. Some parts stores spark testers have an adjustable gap with a scale to estimate how strong of a spark you have.
For distributor timing, you can install a distributor 180 off, so the spark is getting to the cylinder at the wrong time. I did this on my old accord and was aware of the posibility. To check, you need to get cylinder 1 to top dead center by mechanically turning the engine by hand on the crank bolt. There is a good and now old eric the car guy video on how to do this. Once at top dead center, remove the distributor cap and see if the contact on the rotor is pointing towards the #1 spark plug wire on the distributor cap.
Make sure you have the spark plug wire installed in the correct order on the distributor cap. Starting at cylinder 1 on the distributor cap and going clockwise looking from the passenger side of your car, the spark plug wire order is 1 - 3 - 4 - 2.
Thanks everyone. I'm working all the suggestions this week and I'll let you know which one worked! I appreciate the feedback. This forum is great!
@nomad2020 I'm talking about the ears on the distributor blade that fits into the slot on the camshaft. The part that is inserted into the cylinder head. That blade is only slightly off-set from center. It is possible to install 180°, because I did it and was aware it could happen at that time. The physical housing can't be flipped 180° due to the 3 bolt hole pattern.
Thanks you all for contributing to helping me solve this problem. Turns out it was the chip in the key. Had a new key made and coded and it started right up. Didn't even think to go there since it just looks like a normal key. Totally slipped my mind about the rudimentary, but important technology from back then. Thanks again!
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