Ok I hit a curve one day and my RPM meter was flutuating and after a while it stopped the same day, never came back. Ok Another day I was messing with the control box of the EGR port and i wanted the change the hoses, So i did but i put them on backwards, so i got a CEL and i switched it back, I did the little test to see if my Egr is working and its fine. Problem is that i still get a CEL for the Same EGR problem. Insuficient Flow, All hoses are connected and I dont think I ever felt any vacuum from the EGR itself. Im a newb and i know that the control box for the EGR the black part is the bottom frong suppose to be blocked or should it be free cause mine is blocked.... Ok, So now for the problem
1. My cars idle fluctautes at park
2. The RPM stayes at a 1000 while at the light
3. I smell burning rubber
4. I dont know if it messes with the transmittion at all but mine is acting funny
5.My car is moving without me steeping on the gas, rough shut down.

What I have done
1.Bleed the Coolant and bleed the screw by the thermostat for air i did get some air out of there.
2. I set the Fast idle Screw and that seems to have no effect on what is happening, its all the way in the body.
3. I dont know how to check for leaks...help me on this on.


(this happens after about 10 minutes of continues driving and finally at stop i get a idle stop of 1k rpm and a idle speed of either 2500RPM or Flutuating.

THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP, I WILL TRY MY BEST TO FIX THIS PROBLEM!!!

 

What part of the car got hit when you hit the curb? Was there any structural damage?

I would check that all the connections near the throttle body (MAP, TPS, etc) are clean and secure. The tach gets its signal from the ignition control module. Make sure the connectinos are secure at the distributor.

I would pull the radio (backup) 7.5 amp fuse in the engine bay box for a minute. This will clear the ECU.

To check the two idle valves, pull the intake tube off of the throttle body. The lower port goes to the FITV and the top goes to the IAC. When the engine is still cold, the lower port should have a decent vacuum (FITV open) and barely any when the engine is hot. Just cover the lower one with your finger and see if the idle smooths out. If you cover both holes, the engine should stumble and stall.

 

I have to replace my tie rod end on that side. Which was the passenger side front wheel.
Got anymore suggestions? should I clean the EGR port holes?

 

Cleaning the egr ports might help, but they should not change the idle. Google search T21013.pdf and the last pages will show you how to clean the ports.

You should check the vacuum on the EGR valve though. I can't open my pdf of the shop manual for some odd reason right now, but the valve should not have vacuum going to it at idle. At higher rpms >2000, it should get vacuum. If you go to the ACC 5th gen thread in the DIY section, that link has a shop manual for a 5th gen accord. It will have the testing procedure in there.

 

Ok well i had to miss school today because it got bad, I cleaned the ports they were clogged and i cleaned the screen on the FICV it also had some carbon on it. Put everything back together and I still have the same problem, Fluctuating idle and while driving the idle at red light is 1000RPM+.

 

Did you \plug the port to the FITV when the engine is running warm? Just pull off the intake hose and cover the lower hole inside the throttle body (before the throttle plate) with your finger. If the idle smooths out, then you found the problem.

Air in the coolant is another posibility, that you said you addressed. Make sure the engine is cold. Take off the radiator cap, loosen the bleeder valve, add coolant to radiator until a steady stream of coolant comes out of that bleeder valve. Shut bleeder valve and top off radiator.

If you look at the fuel and emissions pdf, there is a section for idle system troubleshooting. There is a power steering pressure switch as one of the components that can cause idle problems. Just try the above suggestions and look carefully at this section on the shop manual.

 

Ok I did all that i got a little suction from the FITV, That did not slow the idle. (when i covered the whole)
But lol, I missed this in the DIY Write up:
"EDIT: I forgot to mention to also make sure your valves are adjusted to spec. Yes, valve lash (improperly adjusted intake/exhaust valves) can cause erratic idle."
My valves are out of whack well not all just like two or so. but It never caused a problem before, well i will adjust on a warm day and see what happens. But i would like to know about the Power steering switch also becuase I was to trouble shoot everything while Im not lazy lol.
Note: I cleaned all possible parts (for one day)