Start, quit, start, quit, start, run.
#71
10-16-2009, 04:10 PM
I've started to remove the upper and lower covers on the steering wheel. So far I've removed 3 machine-thread bolts out and two very-coarse-thread screws.
The two indents on the lower cover that are closest to the steering wheel don't have screws in them. They have something in there made of a light-colored plastic. There is no groove in them to insert a screw driver of any type, but there is something in there that's holding the upper and lower halves of the cover together. Has Honda put some kind of plastic pins in those two holes? If so, how do I remove them?
As well, on the right side of the two covers, in the area around where you put the key in the tumbler, even though I've removed that deeply-inset coarse screw, the two halves don't seem to want to separate. Are there some clips or something in that area that have to be unclipped?
Thanks for the help.
The two indents on the lower cover that are closest to the steering wheel don't have screws in them. They have something in there made of a light-colored plastic. There is no groove in them to insert a screw driver of any type, but there is something in there that's holding the upper and lower halves of the cover together. Has Honda put some kind of plastic pins in those two holes? If so, how do I remove them?
As well, on the right side of the two covers, in the area around where you put the key in the tumbler, even though I've removed that deeply-inset coarse screw, the two halves don't seem to want to separate. Are there some clips or something in that area that have to be unclipped?
Thanks for the help.
#72
10-16-2009, 05:03 PM
From the 91 shop manual, there only seems to be 5 screws holding the two halves together. I would lower the steering column and try to pop the top half off. I remember that mine had snaps in it.
I don't think that you need to remove the steering wheel.
You don't have to get a new key. You only need the electrical portion of the switch (the back half).
The tumbler/switch assembly is held together by two bolts. Honda has a security feature where the two bolts holding it together have no bolt head or screwdriver indents.
The manual say to use a center punch on the side to make an indent so you can turn it. You can also get away with a dremel to cut a line across the bolt and use a flat-head screwdriver.
I don't think that you need to remove the steering wheel.
You don't have to get a new key. You only need the electrical portion of the switch (the back half).
The tumbler/switch assembly is held together by two bolts. Honda has a security feature where the two bolts holding it together have no bolt head or screwdriver indents.
The manual say to use a center punch on the side to make an indent so you can turn it. You can also get away with a dremel to cut a line across the bolt and use a flat-head screwdriver.
#73
10-16-2009, 05:38 PM
From the 91 shop manual, there only seems to be 5 screws holding the two halves together. I would lower the steering column and try to pop the top half off. I remember that mine had snaps in it.
I don't think that you need to remove the steering wheel.
You don't have to get a new key. You only need the electrical portion of the switch (the back half).
The tumbler/switch assembly is held together by two bolts. Honda has a security feature where the two bolts holding it together have no bolt head or screwdriver indents.
The manual say to use a center punch on the side to make an indent so you can turn it. You can also get away with a dremel to cut a line across the bolt and use a flat-head screwdriver.
I don't think that you need to remove the steering wheel.
You don't have to get a new key. You only need the electrical portion of the switch (the back half).
The tumbler/switch assembly is held together by two bolts. Honda has a security feature where the two bolts holding it together have no bolt head or screwdriver indents.
The manual say to use a center punch on the side to make an indent so you can turn it. You can also get away with a dremel to cut a line across the bolt and use a flat-head screwdriver.
#74
10-16-2009, 07:38 PM
The remote starter has complicated this job something wicked.
Is the object below part of the remote starter (that we had put on the car by an aftermarket place about 15 years ago), or is it an OEM part that came in the car? I believe it is part of the remote starter, but I'm not positive.
Thanks for the help. I appreciate it.
Is the object below part of the remote starter (that we had put on the car by an aftermarket place about 15 years ago), or is it an OEM part that came in the car? I believe it is part of the remote starter, but I'm not positive.
Thanks for the help. I appreciate it.
#75
10-16-2009, 09:29 PM
The part pictured above must have been part of the remote start system. We bought a rather fancy Viper system that I think would remotely operate electric windows, hood, and door locks, but because our car does not have those goodies, that monstrous pack of relay switches was never hooked up.
In the end, I completely removed the bird's-next of wires and two main parts of the remote starter system from the car and installed the new Honda OEM switch ($114!) and cable directly from the proper switch location to the fuse panel, without properly routing the cable. I just wanted to see if the car was going to run.
I then connected the battery and the car started right up and operated normally. Eureka!
Then I disconnected the battery and routed the cable properly, started the engine again and then, finally, installed the steering column covers. Done.
Because the first Honda switch lasted 17 years, I guess I won't be buying another for this particular car.
Too bad about the remote starter. The thing worked for 15 years without a problem, but I could not deal with that bunched-up maze of wire and install the multitude of snap-on connections to the new ignition cable yet again.
When not in use, the car is almost always parked in the garage, so I'll just have to go out and start the car manually if I want it to warm up before driving. Life is tough.
BTW, there are three plastic clips that are built into (part of) the two column-cover halves. After the 5 screws are removed, one has to monkey around with the two covers until they separate.
Again, thanks for the help, PA.
In the end, I completely removed the bird's-next of wires and two main parts of the remote starter system from the car and installed the new Honda OEM switch ($114!) and cable directly from the proper switch location to the fuse panel, without properly routing the cable. I just wanted to see if the car was going to run.
I then connected the battery and the car started right up and operated normally. Eureka!
Then I disconnected the battery and routed the cable properly, started the engine again and then, finally, installed the steering column covers. Done.
Because the first Honda switch lasted 17 years, I guess I won't be buying another for this particular car.
Too bad about the remote starter. The thing worked for 15 years without a problem, but I could not deal with that bunched-up maze of wire and install the multitude of snap-on connections to the new ignition cable yet again.
When not in use, the car is almost always parked in the garage, so I'll just have to go out and start the car manually if I want it to warm up before driving. Life is tough.
BTW, there are three plastic clips that are built into (part of) the two column-cover halves. After the 5 screws are removed, one has to monkey around with the two covers until they separate.
Again, thanks for the help, PA.
#77
12-06-2009, 05:09 PM
Unregistered
Posts: n/a
Similar problem with 1994 Accord
Hi all,
I'm new to this forum, but have read the entire thread on this problem. My friend's daughter bought a '94 Accord with 150,000 miles, about a month ago. It started having a problem with not starting, but never quit when it was driving. When she got in to drive it she would turn the key to start, but when she released the key to on it would die. If you kept the key in the start position it would keep cranking but still would have died. Like one of the ohers here, you'd have to turn the key to off and back to restart to get the engine to start for 1 second or less, otherwise the engine would just crank and not start at all. They found that moving the wires for the main relay would make it start, but even that worked less and less and eventually not at all. They changed the main relay, but that did not fix it. Two days ago I changed the electronic part of the ignition switch and that fixed the problem. However, yesterday the initial problem returned. Autozone offers the key part as well as the electronic part with the wiring harness of the ignition switch for $139.00 Just the electronic part was $52.00. I disassembled the old electronic part of the ignition switch, all seemed fine, except for some black on the contacts like old electric grease. My question is 2 part. Has anybody had a similar problem where the wiring harness was the problem, and how do you get the old harness out of the column and the new one in (It goes to the fuse panel or main relay?)? Thanks, george3405
I'm new to this forum, but have read the entire thread on this problem. My friend's daughter bought a '94 Accord with 150,000 miles, about a month ago. It started having a problem with not starting, but never quit when it was driving. When she got in to drive it she would turn the key to start, but when she released the key to on it would die. If you kept the key in the start position it would keep cranking but still would have died. Like one of the ohers here, you'd have to turn the key to off and back to restart to get the engine to start for 1 second or less, otherwise the engine would just crank and not start at all. They found that moving the wires for the main relay would make it start, but even that worked less and less and eventually not at all. They changed the main relay, but that did not fix it. Two days ago I changed the electronic part of the ignition switch and that fixed the problem. However, yesterday the initial problem returned. Autozone offers the key part as well as the electronic part with the wiring harness of the ignition switch for $139.00 Just the electronic part was $52.00. I disassembled the old electronic part of the ignition switch, all seemed fine, except for some black on the contacts like old electric grease. My question is 2 part. Has anybody had a similar problem where the wiring harness was the problem, and how do you get the old harness out of the column and the new one in (It goes to the fuse panel or main relay?)? Thanks, george3405
#78
11-06-2023, 04:38 PM
Same problem
If I didn't see it for myself, I wouldn't have believed it.
My wife wanted to go to the library today, so she went into the garage to get in the cartogo on her merry way,but she immeidately came back into the house and said "the car doesn't start right".
Needless to say, my interest was piqued, so we went back to the garage and I stood in the garage doorway while she tried to start the car. Here is what I saw and heard:
Attempt 1.Car started instantly, but quit within 1 second.
Attempt 2. Same as 1.
Attempt 3. Car started instantly and continued to run, but when car put in drive, engine quit instantly.
Attempt 4. Same as 3.
Attempt 5. Car started instantly and continued to run fine while in gearand she left.
She came back home a short time later and reported that on the way back from the library theengine suddenly quit on her as she was making a turn. She stopped the car and it started right up again and then came directly home to give me some royal Shiite. (You know, I can't figure out why my wife gets ticked offat me when soemthing goes wrong with the car. Obviously, she should be getting ticked off at the car. After all, I did not break the car, and she's the one who's always driving it, so SHE must have "broken" it. Therefore, it is I who should be getting ticked off at her. But that isn't the waylife works, is it?)
It's been a nice cool day here in Edmonton - outside temp around 61 F.
My wife got back in the car as a passenger, andI drove it out of the garagefor a good test drive. We drove around for 30 minutes and the car ran perfectly.
I've read all the DIYtroubleshooting threads, but our particular symptoms don't seem to match the description ofthe ignitor, coil, spark, master relay, fuel-pump or fuel-filter problems.
The car was not warm when my wife first tried to start it and when it finally ran continuously it certainly was not yet warmed up. (The whole series of events in the garage did not last more than a total of1 minute.)
But there definitely is an intermittent problem andI do believe it is an ignition problem rather thana fuel-supply problem. For example, if the fuel filter were plugged, or the fuel pump were faulty, how could I drive around for 30 minutes with theengine running perfectly?
But maybe I'm all wrong and it is indeed anfuel systemmalfunction.
Of course the problem is that it is intermittent and this will make it more difficult to diagnose, so I thought I come here and describe the problem and maybean HAF memberhas had the same symptoms and a solution to them.
So, has anybody had their car behave in this exact way? If so, what was the cause?
Thanks.
My wife wanted to go to the library today, so she went into the garage to get in the cartogo on her merry way,but she immeidately came back into the house and said "the car doesn't start right".
Needless to say, my interest was piqued, so we went back to the garage and I stood in the garage doorway while she tried to start the car. Here is what I saw and heard:
Attempt 1.Car started instantly, but quit within 1 second.
Attempt 2. Same as 1.
Attempt 3. Car started instantly and continued to run, but when car put in drive, engine quit instantly.
Attempt 4. Same as 3.
Attempt 5. Car started instantly and continued to run fine while in gearand she left.
She came back home a short time later and reported that on the way back from the library theengine suddenly quit on her as she was making a turn. She stopped the car and it started right up again and then came directly home to give me some royal Shiite. (You know, I can't figure out why my wife gets ticked offat me when soemthing goes wrong with the car. Obviously, she should be getting ticked off at the car. After all, I did not break the car, and she's the one who's always driving it, so SHE must have "broken" it. Therefore, it is I who should be getting ticked off at her. But that isn't the waylife works, is it?)
It's been a nice cool day here in Edmonton - outside temp around 61 F.
My wife got back in the car as a passenger, andI drove it out of the garagefor a good test drive. We drove around for 30 minutes and the car ran perfectly.
I've read all the DIYtroubleshooting threads, but our particular symptoms don't seem to match the description ofthe ignitor, coil, spark, master relay, fuel-pump or fuel-filter problems.
The car was not warm when my wife first tried to start it and when it finally ran continuously it certainly was not yet warmed up. (The whole series of events in the garage did not last more than a total of1 minute.)
But there definitely is an intermittent problem andI do believe it is an ignition problem rather thana fuel-supply problem. For example, if the fuel filter were plugged, or the fuel pump were faulty, how could I drive around for 30 minutes with theengine running perfectly?
But maybe I'm all wrong and it is indeed anfuel systemmalfunction.
Of course the problem is that it is intermittent and this will make it more difficult to diagnose, so I thought I come here and describe the problem and maybean HAF memberhas had the same symptoms and a solution to them.
So, has anybody had their car behave in this exact way? If so, what was the cause?
Thanks.
Last edited by Ladytech; 11-06-2023 at 04:39 PM. Reason: Ask a question
#79
11-06-2023, 08:29 PM
This is a very old thread. If you read through the thread, Tony1M posted his solution.
How did you verify you have no fuel when the car acts up? You may want to start a new thread as cover what testing you've done to troubleshoot. Having two potentially different problems on one thread makes it confusing for other members to read later.
How did you verify you have no fuel when the car acts up? You may want to start a new thread as cover what testing you've done to troubleshoot. Having two potentially different problems on one thread makes it confusing for other members to read later.
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