Um... what? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Impreza_WRX <- Read the US Spec section, first year was 01 here in the states.

He has a 2002 that looks like this one, minus the CF hood and polished lip, same wheels though.





You could probably cut it in half if the box has a divider between the subs. It's so freaking pointless to buy a sub box, that was lesson #1 when I tinkered with car audio...

Hooking up the single sub should be just running 1 wire from teh sub to the amp...

Carpeting can be found at Menards or the like... usually just black marine or auto carpet or whatever... you can order the actual thinner pile carpet online probably...

 

im starting with the man in mirror, im asking him to change his ways

 

Man I hope aluminum dust isn't as bad for you as smoking out of aluminum. I'm balancing and sharpening a new 3 blade prop in my room, and I can taste aluminum in mouth...

 

Don't have any new ones, but I put the dremel away and I just working with needle files now. So the dust is dropping, and not getting launched into the air, it's just so hot and mugy in the garage I'm doing up in my room.

So I see you want to hook up your single sub to your amp. First I need to know what amp it is, and how many ohms the sub is. You won't have to pull it out and measure each coil, I'll know what the coils are if you can tell me how many ohms it is wired up they way it is now. But pulling the sub would be best, so you can make sure both coils are still intact.

 

Either wire the coils in series (8 ohms) and bridge it between the two channels if your amp is bridgeable. If it's not, and you don't mind adding an additional terminal cup, wire each coil to a channel on the amp. If your HU only has one sub output your going to have to split it if your amp doesn't support running off a single input, being an audiobahn I doubt it does.

If you try to wire the coils in parallel (2 ohms) and bridge it your amp will burn out as each channel only supports 2 ohms, so in bridged mode 4 ohms is as low as you can go.

 

lets take it slow, iwanna see you again

 

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haf

 

Ok you said the manual it shows you how to wire the coils for 8 ohms. Which is in series, basically the + from the amp would go to coil 1 + terminal, then connect a wire between coil 1 - and coil 2 +, then connect the - from the amp to the - on coil 2. I can find a diagram if your manual doesn't have one. It's simpler than it seems.

As for the switch, if your just trying to keep the amp from coming on put a switch on the remote (small blue) wire. That's what I have for when I take my sub out every weekend to hit the lake. If your trying to kill power on that wire, then your going to have to buy an at least 60 amp relay and install it after the cap, so he cap will stay charged. This would only be worthwhile, if your have to fully remove the amp, and don't want that power line to be hot. Which you really don't have to do, if you just keep the amp from coming on it's fine to have it disconnected.

 

Anyone nerdy enough to run linux here? I think I'm switching back, I'm fed up with windows. For what I do now linux will be better, and my hardware really flys with linux.

 

No you will be using both channels bridged, which with that amp is "400w", just not a true 400w. Look through your manual or at the speaker terminals on the amp to see if your amp is bridgeable. At the amp it show say bridge or bridged with two lines, one pointing to the + terminal on channel 1 and the other to the - terminal on channel 2.

If your amp is not bridgeable, which is really only with really cheapo crappy amps. Your going to have to do one of two things. The first being the better way, hook up coil 1 to channel 1 and coil 2 to channel 2. You will have to make sure each channel is getting the same signal, and with that amp your going to have to split your sub out RCA into two. Or you could just keep the sub the way it is, hooked up only to half the amp, it will only get half the power it could get but it is noob friendly.