Hello to you all, my honda accord when it is filled with AC gas after one week the gas runs out but no noticeable leaks anywhere and the AC doesn't cool anymore. I also notice that the condenser fan doesn't rotate except given a slight push by the finger before it rotates. could this be responsible for the AC gas to run out after one week? Secondly the master door lock switch doesn't lock all the doors. Honda Accord 1998 model, auto trans., milleage 216,000. Lx, 4 cylinder. please i need your suggestion on this problem. THANKS.

 

both fans should run with ac on. you have a significant leak somewhere. I know my schrader valve is leaking a bit but I put the cap on and it's holding.

you're going to have to find the leak. you can get the dye and everything at parts stores to find it.

sounds like that fan is weak and should be replaced. but both should kick on when you run the ac.

good luck.

 

Suggest adding dye to refrigerant to assist w/ tracing leak. Since recharged at least once, add some PAG lubricant + refrigerant can.

If you still can't find an underhood leak (inspect connections, hose crimps, compressor clutch area (shaft seal), condensor face, and aluminum lines for wear holes, then an evaporator leak is likely. Look for dye at the condensate drain tube exit (lower pax side firewall).

Fan brushes are worn out and fan motor must be replaced to repair. Check online for many sources (ebay, amazon, etc). Fan problem unrelated to leak.

You have a major leak which must be located to fix.

Door lock problem is likely a faulty door lock solenoid. Door panel must be removed to confirm power/ground is available to solenoid.

good luck

 

thanks to you all, by next week i will be replacing the faulty fan and then trace where the gas is leaking from

 

Also don't rule out the other fan as good yet either...

Lots of good info in this thread on the fans... (how to troubleshoot etc) I ended up going thru the whole cooling system before determining that the headgasket was shot.

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...7-f22b2-56891/

I can't remember it off the top of my head but there is a connection you can jump and it should fire both fans and that should tell you if you'll just need 1 or both.

 

Honda (along with most every car maker) has different wiring configurations in different parts of the world. Anyway, here's the story for a USA 1998 Accord...

At the thermostat housing there's a "sensor" - really a fan switch - with a plastic plug having 2 wires. Unplug that & connect jumper between the 2 wires. You can short them together with a paperclip or something like that.

Key ON, that should make BOTH fans run, regardless of whether the AC system is working or not. That will tell you if the fans themselves are OK.

Or... regardless of the wiring, you can also unplug the fan motor itself & supply 12v power directly from the battery. That tests the fan motors, but it doesn't test the relays or the rest of the wiring.

 

OK here goes
If you charged the system and it has blown warm again, there IS a leak.
most common place for leak are
1. condenser
2. O-ring seals at the connections to the evaporator core, condenser, and compressor, receiver/dryer, etc
3. Lines
4. Compressor main bearing seal
5. Evaporator core
This will cost you about $250 but it will give you all of the tools needed to find the leak and then you can repair it yourself using YouTube videos.
digital scale for small food items $15

Gauge set with vacuum $150

UV dye kit (Glasses and UV light) $20

Can tap $10

Halogen Leak detector $30-40


first things first since you know there is a leak buy 2 12.x cans of R134A with UV dye like this

This procedure assumes you have all of the above mentioned items. Look at the AC charge for a 98 accord under the hood it should be 23oz. Before stating makes sure your hoses are connected to your manifold securly and the valges are closed
1. Screw first can onto can tap and then connect to the yellow hose. connect the blue hose to low side and red hose to high side and then start the car
a. pierce the can by screwing down the handle on the tap until you feel it go into the can and then reverse to opem
b. crack the yellow line slightly to purge air from the system. Open the blue and red valves so that you can see what the pressures are
c. with the car running with AC on max add both cans of r134a to system ... gently rocking the cans on it's side until empty. This will ensure that the PAG oil and dye make it into the system without slugging the compressor. Remember to close the low side valve when changing cans and to purge the yellow line again before opening that valve to add the second can.

2. drive car around for a few days with AC on
3. if the leak is not immediately obvious, pull car into garage, close door and turn of lights.
4. using UV light and glasses run light along each component until you find the glowing dye... like this
5. make note of the part and order it from HONDA along with a new receiver/dryer (I am not sure if receiver dryers are built onto Honda condensors). aftermarket parts are crap (Denso excluded) and may not be an exact fit. Make sure your parts come witn new O-rings if not order enough of them to do the job.
6. take car to shop and have it evacuated if needed.
7. replace part using new rings. lubricate them with PAG oil ($5 at the local store) and torque them to specs after gently sliding pipes/hoses on
8. Replace receiver dryer again lubricating the O-rings with PAG oil and torque to spec
9. connect blue hose from manifold to low side and red hose to high side
10. connect vacuum pump to yellow line
11. Turn on vacuum pump, open valves on manifold for high and low side and come back in 30
12 is the system on a vacuum (typically -28bar)? If so continue if not. wash enngine off and repeat from step 1
13. close valves to high and low side and come back in 30
14. is the system on a vacuum still? if so continue, if not wash off engine and repeat from step one
15. Remove yellow line from vacuum and attach it to the can tap.
16. Add the appropriate amount of PAG oil for part replaced to the yellow line and reconnect it to your manifold guage
17. attach first can to tap and screw it down until it is snug and then 1/4 turn more
18. pierce can with tap
19. open yellow line slightly at manifold guage to purge air.. should sound just like this Psst...(takes less than 1/4 second) and retighten
20 Turn car on and A/C on high
21 open valve for yellow line and add your refrigerant. I would recommend using Dupont r132a 1 12.X cans should do it nicely
Enjoy cold air
If I can do this, so can you... just use common sense and watch a crapload of YT videos to get it right
DISCLAIMER: You do this at your own risk and I am in NO WAY RESPONSIBLE for what happens to you