Help My Check Engine Light Is Still On
#11
03-02-2012, 08:32 PM
Just found this forum due to having similar issue with check engine light. My mechanic first got a read that it was either the gas cap or the evap. He shut the light off and about three weeks later it came back on. Went to him yesterday and he said it was the evap and would run $400-450. He shut the light off and it came back on 24 hours later. I have a 2001 Honda Accord, 147,000 miles. Is this worth the big fix? Or is the fix easier than I am being led to believe. My mechanic/shop is not a Honda dealer, but only repairs Honda's and Acura's. They have a great reputation city-wide based on word of mouth and I have been going to them since before 2000 (I had a 96 Accord before this one). Thanks for any replys.
#12
03-03-2012, 07:07 AM
Comfortable with DIY?? Wiring??
Go to someplace like autozone & have them read the error code. There's 2 different ones for the EVAP system, and what I'm gonna suggest applies to P1457.
EVAP canister is under the car, about below the left-rear seat. The common failure is the "vent-shut" valve. That's attached to the outboard end of the canister, pretty much just inside of the rocker panel. Take the valve off, & use a couple jumper wires to connect it directly to the battery. You should hear it click as it opens & shuts (when you connect & disconnect it to 12v). When mine happened, it made no sound and it was visibly corroded. New valve was about $50, it's' probably less than $100 today.
Look for a post by me, in the DIY section. Search for "P1457".
If that's not the problem, then you're in for some fun diagnosing it. I bet he quoted $400 because he might spend a couple hours diagnosing. You can search for leaking vacuum hoses, but there's always the chance that it's something difficult like the fuel-tank-pressure-sensor.
Here's a picture, the vent-shut valve is #8.
Go to someplace like autozone & have them read the error code. There's 2 different ones for the EVAP system, and what I'm gonna suggest applies to P1457.
EVAP canister is under the car, about below the left-rear seat. The common failure is the "vent-shut" valve. That's attached to the outboard end of the canister, pretty much just inside of the rocker panel. Take the valve off, & use a couple jumper wires to connect it directly to the battery. You should hear it click as it opens & shuts (when you connect & disconnect it to 12v). When mine happened, it made no sound and it was visibly corroded. New valve was about $50, it's' probably less than $100 today.
Look for a post by me, in the DIY section. Search for "P1457".
If that's not the problem, then you're in for some fun diagnosing it. I bet he quoted $400 because he might spend a couple hours diagnosing. You can search for leaking vacuum hoses, but there's always the chance that it's something difficult like the fuel-tank-pressure-sensor.
Here's a picture, the vent-shut valve is #8.
Last edited by JimBlake; 03-03-2012 at 07:11 AM. Reason: add picture
#13
04-17-2012, 08:13 PM
i am having the same problem check engine light has been on for a year i just moved from va and before i moved my mechanic said not to worry about it he put new egr valve on did the inspection in shop i was good well i moved to ga get here need emissions test go down there the guy took one look at check engine light and it failed he turned light off told me to put seafoam and drive a few miles then come back before i could return light was back on well my mom works at auto parts store she sent new egr valve because she thought the one i had was defective well had that put on even put on new wires and spark plugs (had another problem) guy turns light off well the next day the famous check engine light returns he comes out yesterday checks vacuum lines says there is no suction from bottom line tells me he thinks i need to replace it but sprays the lines with carb n choke cleaner now prior to him doing that the car was driving fine well i tried to drive it down the block it cuts off on me then he takes hose off bottom line car drives fine i go to autozone get solenoid part put it on myself hoping all would be well guess what car cuts off i pull hose off bttom line it drives fine smh any suggestions
That is one long block of text that I can't understand.
How about you start your own thread. State the facts, add the year, engine and trans to your signature. Also be sure to give the EXACT code(s) you are getting.
A period or something between things would also really help. No I can't spell, I'm not an english teacher or anything....really want to help but we have to understand the issue. Right now, I can't understand what that is. If you think I'm being an a&*, sorry.
Last edited by poorman212; 04-17-2012 at 08:15 PM.
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