The 5w vs the 10w isn't anything to loose sleep over. It is a new/used motor you just put in so even without the oil weight question I would do a few (one, maybe two) short oil change cycles, lets say the first at 1~2 k and then depending on the "look" the next at 3~4 K after that. Of course check the level several times while waiting on the time/milage to add up.

 

You read my mind about doing the short changes on the oil. Thus far I've put 800 miles on the new/used engine and (knock on wood) this motor sounds very healthy. I've been checking the oil level daily and it hasn't fluctuated. I've also done some MPG testing and it looks like im getting 28 mpg to a tank (75% highway, 25% around town) Today I did a pure highway pull and seemed to be getting over 30 mpg. Is my MPG fitting in with everyone else? The car is also out of alignment so when I get her aligned, I may gain a MPG, we shall see.

 

The 95 EX Auto got almost 26 MPG (25.7~25.9) with what I call a 60/40 split......original engine/trans with +380K miles.....so sounds about right.

Did you get the ABS figured out?

 

No I haven't figured out that ABS issue. I've been busy cleaning the car, making sure everything is sound and holding up. Thus far I've put over 800 miles on the car and everything is going great. Had a small leak in one of the tires, that turned out to be a bad valve stem. I am averaging about 28 mpg in the Honda so far. I thought it would definitely get over 30 mpg, but I guess not... I'm just proud to own a 180,000

 

Take care of normal things on it and it will last a long time.

Not sure if this was listed back in this thread or not.....before the engine went in, did you replace the timing belts and wp?

EDIT: dumb me, I see we talked about that back in post ~ #21 or so.....also if you look up the mpg ratings for this car online, you are doing very well at 28 mpg

 

I actually never did the WP and timing belt. I went to do it then realized I need a "special" tool in order to get the pulley's off. Maybe I missed something. I plan on doing timing here very soon, just kinda bypassed it because I only had a 30 days warranty on the motor and wanted to get it in and running before anything else. If there is a special tool, can you fill me in on this?

 

There is a "holder" for the crank pulley. A few places rent the tool, if not you can buy one for less than $30. Getting the crank bolt to break loose is "THE" hardest part of the job....the rest is just time consuming IMO.

Unless you or a friend has a "really" good impact.....and I mean really good. You are going to need the "holder" tool and some good 1/2 breaker bars, sockets and pipe. The specs on the crank bolt are only like 180 ft lbs.....but with time and miles it is like 900 ft lbs to get it it break loose. The holder tool holds the crankshaft from turning as you are trying to get the bolt out....without it the motor will spin over before the bolt lets go. I have had the holder on the crank pulley and wedged to the floor.....another breaker bar with pipe extension on the crank bolt......had to get my neighbor to come over and stand/jump on the pipe extension to get it to let loose....I'm only 145lbs wet and counldn't do it.

There are 10K write ups on the "how to" on doing this....."tony" has one in the DIY section for a 4th gen that is pretty much the same...there are videos you can buy ($10).....ect. Of course we are here to help if you get stuck at any point.

 

I looked at mine and got the number off it. For reference do a google search for "648796", this is one example of the tool needed for the job.

 

So it's been a little while since I came on here and I wanted to follow up and let everyone know how the car is running. Well, so far I've put 1200 miles on her and she hasn't missed a beat. But, with everything it's not 100% perfect yet. My vtec solenoid is leaking a little. Pretty sure it's the gasket behind it. And, my driver side axle is leaking. The axle is seated correctly but I am assuming the gasket is shot. Looks like an easy fix. Anyone recommend a web-site/online store to get a new axle seal from?

Also, I haven't looked at the ABS issues yet either poorman. I have been busy doing the holiday thing (shopping, tree getting, train setting up, etc.) and it's been sloppy here in the northeast the last couple of weeks. I need to pull the back wheels off and have a look see. I hear a constant steady squeak in the back passenger wheel. I am going to take a guess and say the ABS light could have something to do with that squeak in the rear wheel. Hope everyone is gearing up for a fun holiday season.

 

If you are talking about the output shaft seal....where the inner cv joint goes into the trans. Then about any good parts store will do.

Now if you are going for the vtec o-rings (there are two, a "top" one and one where it goes to the head. You will have to go to a dealer for those......majestic, bernardi and several others out there. How ever the savings on the part prices with the added shipping may not work out. Check a local dealer's online price to what it would cost from one of the bigger online dealers and decide. Been a while but I think both together was a total of ~$20.

If it is the one going to the head, it can be a pain. I'll be glad to tell you how I got it.....two of the three bolts are no problem......the third is a PIA.

The noise can/could be a number of things. I would pull the wheel as soon as you can and be sure it isn't a pad/caliper issue that will cost more to fix if not taken care of soon.